Tatemadas clams are the most characteristic dish of Loreto, on the shore of the Sea of Cortés. The base is the almeja chocolata, a large mollusk with a smooth brown shell, the color that gives it its name. To tatemar — that is, to roast directly on the fire — the clams are placed side by side on the sand or gravel, with the opening facing down, covered with dry branches and brush, and that pile is set alight.
The fire burns for a few minutes and then goes out on its own. When the ash is brushed aside, the shells are open and the meat is cooked in its own juices, with a light smoky flavor. They are eaten right there with lime, salt and hot sauce, and many people add melted butter or garlic.
In Loreto, some families say they learned the technique on the bay’s islands and pass it down from generation to generation. The almeja chocolata is harvested in several spots of Baja California Sur and also appears raw, in cocktails, or au gratin, but the tatemada version has become the city’s signature, prepared at family gatherings and beach outings.
The harvesting of almeja chocolata is subject to protection rules in the Loreto bay, with closed seasons. Availability can vary throughout the year: check before you go.