Tikin xic is a whole fish, usually grouper or another Caribbean white fish, butterflied and marinated in recado rojo, the red achiote paste, with sour orange juice, garlic and spices. Then it’s placed on a two-sided grill, topped with slices of tomato and onion, and roasted over charcoal or wood. Some people wrap it in banana leaf.
The name comes from Maya, and translations vary: it’s often explained as “dried fin,” a reference to the cut when the fish is opened. The technique of marinating in achiote is the same used for cochinita pibil, but tikin xic is not cooked in a pit oven: it’s grilled over live coals.
The dish comes from the Yucatán Peninsula, and its origin is disputed. In Isla Mujeres it’s regarded as the island’s specialty, and some claim it originated there when the territory was still part of Yucatán. On the island, tikin xic is mainly served at the waterfront, grilled in front of diners.
Tikin xic arrives at the table whole, for sharing, with rice, cabbage salad, lime and corn tortillas, and each person assembles their own tacos.