Flavors · Astorga

Cocido maragato

Cocido de la Maragatería, the comarca of Astorga, served in reverse: first the meats, then the chickpeas with cabbage, and finally the soup. It is the dish that Castile and León tourism associates with Astorga.

Traditional dish from Astorga, Castela e Leão

Also known as: cozido maragato, cocido de la Maragatería

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Spain
Spain
Cocido maragato — Astorga, Spain
Cocido maragato
Cocido maragato — Astorga, Spain
Cocido maragato
Cocido maragato — Astorga, Spain
Cocido maragato
Cocido maragato — Astorga, Spain
Cocido maragato

Cocido maragato — Astorga, Spain

The Maragatería is the comarca of which Astorga is the capital, west of León. Its inhabitants, the maragatos, became known for centuries as muleteers, drivers of mules who carried goods between Galicia, central Spain and the ports. The cocido maragato is the dish of that land, and Castile and León tourism highlights it on the Astorga page.

The recipe brings together chickpeas, cabbage and a wide variety of meats: pork such as chouriço, lacón, ear and rib, beef and chicken, as well as the relleno, a dumpling made of bread, egg, garlic and parsley. The meats and chickpeas are cooked slowly; the cabbage is prepared in a separate pot.

The particularity lies in the order. Cocido maragato arrives at the table in reverse of other cocidos: first the meats, then the chickpeas with cabbage, and finally the soup made with the broth. Popular explanations exist: one says the muleteers ate the solid foods first in case they had to leave suddenly; another that having the soup at the end helps digestion. None have documentary proof.

In 2015, the Astorga city council, the Leonesa Academy of Gastronomy and the regulatory council of the Bierzo Denomination of Origin linked cocido maragato with Bierzo wines. Astorga is on the Camino de Santiago, and many pilgrims stop for the cocido.

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Where it comes from

Astorga , Castela e Leão
Astorga is the capital of the Maragatería, the comarca where the cocido served in reverse originates.

Ingredients

Chickpeas, cabbage, pork meats (chouriço, lacón, ear, rib, bacon), beef, chicken, relleno (bread, egg, garlic and parsley), water, salt; noodles for the soup.

How it is eaten

In three stages, in reverse order: meats, then chickpeas with cabbage, and finally the soup. It is a complete, lengthy meal.

When it is eaten

Lunch dish, served year‑round, most sought after in cold months. Strongly linked to the passage of the Camino de Santiago through Astorga.

Your questions

Questions about Cocido maragato

Why is cocido maragato eaten in reverse?

There are popular explanations: one says muleteers ate the meats first in case they had to leave suddenly; another that finishing with soup aids digestion. None have documentary proof.

What is the Maragatería?

The comarca of Astorga, west of León, land of the maragatos, known as muleteers.

How many stages is cocido maragato served in?

Three: meats, then chickpeas with cabbage, and finally the soup.

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