The bocadillo de calamares is the snack most associated with Madrid. The city tourism office, esMadrid, presents it as a gastronomic icon of the city, linked to the bars on the streets around the Plaza Mayor, where it is served at the bar, wrapped in paper.
The recipe is short. The squid is cut into rings, tossed in flour, sometimes also in egg, and fried in very hot oil. The still-crispy rings go inside a baguette-style bread, split in half, with no other filling. Some people add mayonnaise or a squeeze of lemon, but the traditional version is dry.
The presence of a squid dish in a city far from the sea is usually explained by the old fish transport network to the capital and by meatless days, when fried fish was the inexpensive option. These are popular explanations, with no known date of origin.
It’s eaten standing up, with a beer or a soft drink, at any time of day. It’s food for people on the move, for those strolling through the historic center, and it also appears in neighborhood bars and at the train stations.