The calçotada originated in Valls, the capital of the Alt Camp comarca in inland Tarragona. The calçot is a white, sweet onion sprout grown to elongate: the plant is covered with soil as it grows so the white part lengthens. The Calçot de Valls has Protected Geographical Indication.
Local history credits the origin to a Valls peasant in the late 19th century who roasted some onion sprouts over embers and discovered that, once the skin was burned away, the interior became soft and sweet. Since then, the meal spread across Catalonia and became one of the region’s most common winter gatherings.
Calçots are roasted on large griddles over flames of vine prunings until the outer skin turns black. They are then wrapped in newspaper or placed on tiles to finish cooking in their own heat. At the table, each person holds the calçot by the green tip, pulls off the burned skin and dips the white part in the salsa de calçots, also called salvitxada — a sauce of toasted almonds and hazelnuts, roasted tomato and garlic, dried pepper, olive oil and vinegar.
The calçotada is a full meal: after the calçots come grilled meats and sausages, and dessert. In Valls, the calçotada festival takes place on the last Sunday of January, with parades, producer and eater contests and roasting demonstrations.