MS · Brazil
Crystal-clear rivers, caves and snorkeling among the fish.
Illustrative images. The pictures in this guide are illustrations based on the real place, not photographs, and may differ from it.
Get to know the place
Here the water is the show: rivers so clear that you float over schools of fish as if you were inside an aquarium. Between blue caves, giant sinkholes and waterfalls hidden in the hills, every day brings a different outing. It is the Brazilian destination that became a world benchmark for organized ecotourism.
The secret of the clarity is the limestone of the Serra da Bodoquena, which filters the river water. Bonito is home to the Gruta do Lago Azul, the Abismo Anhumas, with a rappel descent to an underground lake, and the snorkeling floats on the Rio Sucuri and at the Aquário Natural. In Jardim, the Rio da Prata float and the Buraco das Araras, a sinkhole where red-and-green macaws nest, are among the most popular outings. Bodoquena has waterfalls in sequence, such as those at Boca da Onça.
Most attractions are on private ranches, with a limited number of visitors per day, mandatory guides and rules of conduct, such as no sunscreen in the water. That is what keeps the rivers so clean, and it is also why your trip needs planning: spots on the most popular outings sell out early, especially during school vacations and holidays.
This destination brings together 3 cities: Bonito, Jardim, Bodoquena.
A look at the place
These pictures are illustrations based on the real place, not photographs. They may differ from the place.
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One destination, many paths
Start with one city or combine several in your itinerary.
Bonito brings together clear rivers, caves and forest landscapes in the Serra da Bodoquena. The Gruta do Lago Azul and the aquatic environments reveal the link between the water and the region's limestone formations.
Jardim combines clear-water rivers and urban heritage in southwestern Mato Grosso do Sul. The Serra da Bodoquena landscapes and the downtown spaces show different sides of local history.
Bodoquena brings together rivers, waterfalls and limestone formations in a hilly region of Mato Grosso do Sul. The natural landscape and the town's public spaces give visitors a glimpse of country life.
The local experience
A monumental cave holding a deep-blue lake at the bottom, lit by sunlight entering through the cave mouth. The descent on stone steps passes huge stalactites.
An easy trail of about 2.5 km through the riverside forest of the Betione River, with seven waterfalls and several swimming stops. The tour includes a raft ride on the river and can be combined with kayaking or stand-up paddleboarding.
Discover Cachoeiras Serra da Bodoquena
A forest trail leads to the spring, where the float begins in crystal-clear water surrounded by fish. The gentle current does the work and you just watch.
It is in the northern section of the Parque Nacional da Serra da Bodoquena, about 30 km from town, and is explored on a trail of approximately 5 km between rock walls. The route follows the banks and the bed of the river, with small waterfalls and natural pools.
Discover Cânion do Rio Salobra
Considered one of the clearest rivers in the world, it rises in a natural pool and flows calmly among aquatic plants. The float is relaxed, ideal if you have never snorkeled.
You enter by a 72-meter rappel down to an underground lake surrounded by limestone cones. Down below you can snorkel or scuba dive among the formations.
On the banks of the Miranda River, it marks the spot where Colonel Camisão, Lieutenant Colonel Juvêncio and Guia Lopes were buried after dying during the Retreat of Laguna, in 1867. The remains were taken to Rio de Janeiro, and the site is maintained by the city and the Army.
A hill village with viewpoints facing the Nabileque Pantanal and the Kadiwéu Indigenous lands. The area's rock formations are considered remnants of ancient ocean crust, and the roads draw cyclists.
A public leisure area run by the city on the banks of the Rio Formoso, about 6.5 km from downtown. The clear water lets you see schools of fish up close, with shallow stretches for children and deeper areas for swimming.
A gigantic sinkhole with reddish walls where red-and-green macaws live in the wild. Viewpoints on the rim let you watch them fly over the abyss.
An arched bridge built in the 1930s over the Miranda River, on the border with Guia Lopes da Laguna. It is one of the historic landmarks of the region's settlement and a spot for taking in the river.
A trail of several hours past a series of waterfalls and natural pools to the tallest waterfall in Mato Grosso do Sul, at 156 meters. There is also a breathtaking rappel.
Discover Cachoeiras Boca da Onça
A lake in a sinkhole whose depth has not yet been fully measured, with blue water and impressive visibility. You can snorkel on the surface or scuba dive.
The float starts at the spring itself, inside a protected area where fish swim right up to you. It is the best tour for families with children.
Discover Aquário Natural Baía Bonita
Your base to explore
Where you stay is part of the trip. Choose the area that best fits your itinerary.
It is on Rua Doutor Pires, just over a kilometer from downtown Bonito, with private rooms and shared dorms, a pool, hammocks and an on-site tour agency. It suits backpackers, solo travelers and groups looking for budget lodging.
It is on Rua 1º de Maio, in downtown Jardim, near shops and restaurants, with 25 rooms, a pool, a gym and private parking. It suits business travelers and tourists using the town as a base to visit the Rio da Prata and the Buraco das Araras.
It is in rural Bodoquena, about 25 km from town, by the Salobra River, and combines a pousada (guesthouse), a river swimming area, a restaurant and a campground, with suites, rooms and hilltop chalets. It suits families and groups who want river swimming, a zipline and tubing without leaving the property.
It is on Avenida Fernando Aranha, in Jardim, a recently built hotel with spacious rooms, parking and breakfast. It suits couples and travelers passing through who want new, practical lodging in town.
It is on the Bonito–Três Morros highway, about 3 km from downtown, in a green area where you often see monkeys, toucans and macaws near the chalets and rooms. It suits travelers who want to sleep in a quiet setting close to nature and have a car to drive into town for dinner.
It is on Rua 29 de Maio, in the Vila América neighborhood, in urban Bonito, with a tree-filled garden, a leisure area and breakfast. It is a no-frills option with full facilities for families and couples who want to stay near downtown.
It is on Rua 1º de Maio, in downtown Jardim, with 28 air-conditioned rooms, breakfast, a restaurant and an event hall. It is a budget option for business travelers or anyone passing through town on the way to the Serra da Bodoquena attractions.
Zagaia Eco Resort is in Bonito. It has air conditioning, TV, a minibar, a hair dryer, a safe and a generator.
Marruá Hotel is in Vila Donária, in Bonito.
Arte da Natureza Hotel Bonito is a few meters from Bonito's main street. It has four pools, two of them heated; hot tubs, breakfast, recreation, games and dining.
Hotel Cabanas is by the Formoso and Formosinho rivers, with its own swimming areas, in Bonito. It has breakfast, a 24-hour front desk, a bar, parking, a sauna, a hot tub, air conditioning, a restaurant, a heated pool, Wi-Fi, a gym and beach tennis.
Pousada Girassol is in central Bonito. It has air conditioning, Wi-Fi, a heated pool with hot tub, breakfast and a tour agency.
Vitória Hotel MS is downtown, in Jardim. It has breakfast, a pool, parking and internet.
Flavors of the destination
It is on Avenida Duque de Caxias, Jardim's main avenue, and serves pizzas, sandwiches and Brazilian dishes such as fish and steaks. With a simple setting, it serves locals and travelers looking for a casual meal downtown.
It is on Rua Coronel Nelson Felício dos Santos, in downtown Bonito, in a rustic-style house, sometimes with live music. The kitchen works with river fish and regional meats, and the fried traíra (a river fish) is the best-known dish. It welcomes couples, families and groups of tourists who want to try local food.
It is on Avenida Manoel Rodrigues de Oliveira, the main street in downtown Bodoquena, and serves pizzas, sandwiches and shareable plates such as stuffed potatoes and tilapia. It has table service and a play area for children, and serves families and visitors spending the night in town.
It is on Rua Ari Coelho de Oliveira, in Jardim, and serves grilled fish, fish stews and other regional dishes, with beer and cocktails. It also offers takeout and delivery, and serves locals and tourists.
It is on Rua Guilherme Maidana, in downtown Bodoquena, and serves lunch of Brazilian home-style food, with fried fish as a weekly dish. It is a simple restaurant run by the owner herself, serving locals and visitors looking for an everyday meal.
It is on Rua Senador Filinto Müller, in downtown Bonito, and serves artisan pizzas with long-fermented dough and house-made sauces and toppings. The menu includes fresh juices, wines and craft beers, and there are outdoor tables.
It is on Rua Coronel Pilad Rebuá, Bonito's main street, and serves pastéis (fried filled pastries) with traditional and regional fillings, such as caiman meat, as well as soups. It is a quick, casual stop after your tours.
Before you go
A little planning leaves more time to enjoy the journey.
Bonito Airport (BYO) has scheduled flights for part of the year. The most common route is to fly to Campo Grande and continue about 300 km by car or van on the BR-060 and BR-267, in about 4 hours. Jardim is about 60 km from Bonito, and Bodoquena about 70 km.
From April to September, in the dry season, when the rivers are usually at their clearest and the trails are firm. From December to March, it is hotter and the waterfalls are fuller, but heavy rain can cloud the water for a few days. July and long holiday weekends are the busiest times.
Allow 4 to 5 days. Most tours take half a day or a full day, and the ranches are up to an hour and a half's drive from Bonito, so you can do one or two a day. If you want to add the Pantanal, plan 2 or 3 more days, heading from Bonito to Miranda.
Bonito is the base for almost all visitors: it has the pousadas (guesthouses), hotels, restaurants and agencies that sell the tours. If you plan to focus on the Jardim attractions, such as the Rio da Prata and the Buraco das Araras, there are pousadas in town and on ranches in the area. Some ranches also offer lodging right at the attraction.
Take your trash with you, follow the signs and support local businesses. In natural areas, follow the visiting guidelines.
Get your questions answered
Tours are sold by accredited travel agencies through the voucher único, a city system that controls the number of visitors at each attraction. You cannot buy at the ranch gate. The voucher shows the date and time of the tour, and if you are late you may lose your spot.
Yes, especially the most popular ones, such as the Gruta do Lago Azul, the Abismo Anhumas and the Rio da Prata and Rio Sucuri floats, which have limited daily spots. During school vacations and holidays, book as soon as you have your travel dates. In the low season, there is more flexibility.
No. The float is done with a life jacket, mask, snorkel and wetsuit, and the current carries the group downstream, always with a guide. You just need to feel comfortable in the water. Children usually have a minimum age, which varies from tour to tour.
No. Sunscreen, repellent, lotions and makeup are banned on the floats and when swimming, because they cloud the water and harm the wildlife. Protect yourself from the sun with clothing and a cap out of the water. The ranches explain the rules before each tour.
It is not required. Most agencies offer transportation to the ranches, and there are transfers from Campo Grande. A car gives you more flexibility with times, but some roads are dirt and get difficult on rainy days.
