MA · Brazil
White dunes and blue lagoons as far as the eye can see.
Illustrative images. The pictures in this guide are illustrations based on the real place, not photographs, and may differ from it.
Get to know the place
Imagine a desert of white sand that fills with clear fresh water after the rains: that is how the Lençóis Maranhenses greet you. You climb dunes on foot, swim in lagoons that exist only a few months a year and end the day watching the sun set over an endless horizon.
The Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses (national park) covers about 155,000 hectares between Barreirinhas, Santo Amaro do Maranhão and Primeira Cruz. Barreirinhas is the best-equipped gateway: 4x4 circuits leave from there to Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Bonita (lagoons), as does the speedboat trip along the Rio Preguiças (river) to Vassouras, Mandacaru and Caburé. Santo Amaro gives access to larger, less-visited lagoons, such as Lagoa da Gaivota and the Emendadas, and Atins is the fishing village where the river meets the sea.
To the east, Paulino Neves is home to the Pequenos Lençóis, with dunes and lagoons that are easier to reach and far less crowded. Tours are done on foot and in licensed 4x4 vehicles, because there are no roads inside the park. If you have the stamina, you can cross the Lençóis on foot, on multi-day treks with a guide.
This destination brings together 4 cities: Barreirinhas, Santo Amaro do Maranhão, Primeira Cruz, Paulino Neves.
A look at the place
These pictures are illustrations based on the real place, not photographs. They may differ from the place.
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One destination, many paths
Start with one city or combine several in your itinerary.
Barreirinhas grew up on the banks of the Rio Preguiças and is one of the gateways to the Lençóis Maranhenses. Boat trips reveal riverside villages, while dunes and lagoons complete the journey.
Santo Amaro do Maranhão sits next to the dunes and lagoons of the Lençóis Maranhenses. Walks across the sand, swims in the lagoons and visits to local communities bring you close to the landscape.
Primeira Cruz brings together rivers, mangroves and lagoons on the Maranhão coast. Riverside life along the Rio Periá and the waters of Lagoa do Cassó reveal the different settings of the municipality.
Paulino Neves is crossed by the Rio Novo and is part of the landscape of the Pequenos Lençóis Maranhenses. Dunes, lagoons and beaches make up the tours, between riverside life and the paths of the Rota das Emoções.
The local experience
It's the most visited lagoon in the park and usually opens the classic itinerary if you arrive through Barreirinhas. The water has a blue-green tone that changes with the time of day.
It's in the village of Cassó, about 207 kilometers from São Luís, with crystal-clear water that forms a natural pool. Hammocks hung in the water invite you to rest, and the lagoon supports local fishermen and farmers.
A field of dunes and seasonal lagoons protected by a state environmental protection area created in 1991. It differs from the neighboring national park in its coarser, more yellowish sand, a more indented coastline and more abundant vegetation.
Discover Pequenos Lençóis Maranhenses
You reach it by climbing a steep dune about 30 meters high, and the reward is a view of the whole dune field. It's the favorite spot for watching the sunset.
A boat trip that leaves the town's port in the afternoon, through the surrounding rivers and mangroves. Along the way you can spot scarlet ibises, capuchin monkeys, dolphins and river dolphins, with the sunset at the end of the trip.
Formed about a century ago when dunes dammed an older river, it runs through the town, which for a long time bore its name. It's navigable by small boats, and its calm waters, lined with mangroves, are good for swimming and kayaking.
A community inside the Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses, crossed by the Rio Alegre, with dark water at a pleasant temperature for swimming. It's the support base for the Betânia, Pedra and Cajueirinho lagoons, reached in licensed vehicles.
Located in the village of Campo Novo, it's part of the Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses circuits in the municipality. It offers good conditions for swimming, especially in the dry season, and is reached in licensed vehicles.
A tall dune used as a natural viewpoint, with a panoramic view over the white sand field, the beaches and the region's wind farms. It's most popular in the late afternoon, for watching the sunset.
Close to town, it can be reached on foot or by vehicle and is part of the most popular circuit in the area. The route also includes Lagoa do Maçarico, among the dunes of the Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses.
About 15 kilometers from town, it has a long strip of sand facing the open sea and a quiet atmosphere. It's one of the popular sunset spots on the stretch between the Lençóis and the Delta do Parnaíba.
Discover Praia do Barro Vermelho
The speedboat trip goes down the river between mangroves and dunes, with stops at small riverside villages. It's the water-based counterpart to the walks on the sand.
In the village of Mandacaru, climbing the lighthouse is a must on the Rio Preguiças circuit. From the top you can see where the river meets the sea and the dune field in the distance.
A narrow strip of sand with the open sea on one side and the Rio Preguiças on the other. A traditional stop for a fish lunch and a swim on both sides.
A former fishing village near the mouth of the Preguiças, now a base for kitesurfing and beachfront pousadas. From here, walking and 4x4 trips head to less-visited lagoons.
A set of interconnected lagoons that can only be reached by walking across the dunes. It's the option if you want to feel the scale of the park away from the bigger groups.
Your base to explore
Where you stay is part of the trip. Choose the area that best fits your itinerary.
A pousada with air-conditioned wooden chalets on the shore of Lagoa do Cassó, in the countryside of Primeira Cruz, reached by about 22 km of sand road. Geared to those who want to spend a few days at the lagoon, with an on-site restaurant and direct access to the water.
A resort of chalets on the banks of the Rio Preguiças, on Estrada do Carnaubal, with rooms spread over large wooded grounds. It has three pools, one with a sand bottom and another with river water, plus a sauna, restaurant and kayaks, and is popular with families.
A simple pousada on Rua Campos Verdes, by the MA-315 highway, in Paulino Neves. It has breakfast, a terrace and air-conditioned rooms, and also works as a tour agency, which suits those using the town as a base for the Pequenos Lençóis and the area's dunes.
A rustic-chic pousada on Rua Olho d'Água, with chalets and rooms surrounded by greenery, about 2 km from the entrance to the Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses. It has a pool, massages, an organic garden, canoeing and a regional restaurant, and suits those who want more comfort in the village.
A pousada with chalets surrounded by gardens and native forest in the Boa Vista neighborhood, a few minutes from downtown, linked by its own trail to the Rio Preguiças. It has hammocks on the porches, a heated pool and the Bambaê restaurant by the river, and suits those looking for peace and quiet close to nature.
A recently built pousada on Rua São João Batista, in the Cajazeiras neighborhood, in Paulino Neves. It offers breakfast, a barbecue area and a kids' play area, and mainly serves families visiting the Pequenos Lençóis.
A pousada on the shore of Lagoa do Cassó, in the village of Caçozinho, with a pool, garden, restaurant and kayaks for guests. Family-oriented, for those who want to stay on site and enjoy the lagoon without relying on trips along the sand road.
A small pousada with just a few chalets on Rua Mandacaru, in Santo Amaro do Maranhão, with delicate decor and garden views. The chalets sleep two to four people and have outdoor showers, and the place has a regional restaurant and bicycles, good for couples and small families.
A simple pousada with chalets on Travessa Osvaldo Cruz, in the village center, near the river in a quiet, leafy setting. It has a pool and a restaurant serving regional dishes that's also open to non-guests, and suits those who want to stay close to everything while spending less.
A small pousada on Avenida Fátima Costa, near Lagoa do Cassó, with family rooms, a garden and a restaurant. A simpler option for those spending a few days at the lagoon who want kayaking and trails nearby.
A 30-room pousada on Rua Cazuza Ramos, in the Carnaubal neighborhood, on the banks of the Rio Preguiças and near downtown Barreirinhas. It has pools, a restaurant and air-conditioned rooms, and suits families who want to stay close to the river and the town's shops.
A rustic pousada in the village of Tingidor, next to Lagoa do Barreiro Azul, in the countryside of Paulino Neves. For those seeking peace and contact with nature, with the lagoon a few steps away and the Pequenos Lençóis within reach on a tour.
Pousada do Porto is downtown, on the banks of the Rio Preguiças, in Barreirinhas. It has breakfast.
Pousada Barreirinhas is in Barreirinhas. It has breakfast and river access.
Hotel Rio Preguiças is on the banks of the Rio Preguiças, in Barreirinhas. It has air-conditioning, Wi-Fi, parking, breakfast and room service.
Vila Capininga is in Malhadinha, about 1 km from the Lençóis Maranhenses, in Santo Amaro do Maranhão. It has air-conditioning, TV, minibar, safe, hot water and a porch with a hammock.
Flavors of the destination
A restaurant on the banks of the Rio Preguiças, created to serve guests of the Encantes do Nordeste pousada and later opened to tourists and locals. The kitchen blends Maranhão tradition with refined techniques in fish and seafood dishes, such as shrimp in a pineapple with coconut cream, and the place has live music and a sunset view.
A restaurant on Rua Parazins, in Santo Amaro do Maranhão, devoted to Maranhão cooking with a focus on fish and seafood. Dishes mentioned by diners include octopus and breaded shrimp, served in a pleasant setting, and it's a good idea to book in high season.
A restaurant on the shore of Lagoa do Barreiro Azul, in the village of Tingidor, in the countryside of Paulino Neves. It serves regional dishes in a simple setting, with the lagoon as the main attraction, and makes a full-day outing for families, who combine a swim and lunch in the same place.
The restaurant of the KN Village pousada, on the shore of Lagoa do Cassó, also open to non-guests. It serves Maranhão cooking and is a lunch stop for day trips from São Luís, with tables near the water.
A restaurant on Avenida Beira Rio, the busy waterfront of the Rio Preguiças, with outdoor tables facing the water. The menu ranges from snacks to grilled fish and seafood dishes, highlighted by shrimp served in a pineapple, which the restaurant says it created, and it's a good pick if you want dinner by the river.
A beach shack with tables on the sand at Praia do Barro Vermelho, in Paulino Neves. The menu revolves around the catch of the day, such as shrimp, fried fish, lobster and shellfish, plus carne de sol (sun-dried beef) and snacks, and it welcomes independent travelers and groups doing the Pequenos Lençóis route.
A restaurant at Balneário Rio Alegre, with a deck and outdoor tables facing the Rio Alegre. It serves fish, shrimp and regional dishes, such as grilled bluefish and goat in coconut milk, and draws people who want lunch or dinner by the river, sometimes with live music.
The restaurant of Pousada Rancho das Dunas, on Rua Olho d'Água, also open to non-guests. The kitchen works with regional recipes, seafood and ingredients from the house garden, with dishes such as shrimp and lamb, and it's worth booking to avoid a wait.
A restaurant on Avenida Beira Rio, in downtown Barreirinhas, near the boarding points for the boat trips. It mixes regional cooking, fish, seafood and Asian dishes in generous portions, with live music at night, and suits anyone who wants to eat facing the Rio Preguiças.
Before you go
A little planning leaves more time to enjoy the journey.
Fly into São Luís Airport (SLZ), then it's about 250 km on the MA-402 to Barreirinhas, around 4 hours by car, van or bus. Santo Amaro is about 250 km from São Luís, with the last stretch on sand, done by 4x4. Atins is reached by speedboat or 4x4 from Barreirinhas.
From June to September, when the lagoons are full and the skies have cleared after the rains; July and August are usually the best months. The rains run from January to May and fill the lagoons. From October to December, the water drops and many lagoons dry up, but the wind and the dunes remain.
Plan at least 3 days in Barreirinhas: one for the Lagoa Azul circuit, one for Lagoa Bonita and one for the speedboat trip on the Rio Preguiças. With 5 or 6 days, you can add Santo Amaro or Atins, and with more time, the Pequenos Lençóis in Paulino Neves.
Barreirinhas has the widest choice of pousadas (guesthouses) and hotels, and almost all tours leave from there. Santo Amaro, simpler, sits right next to the dunes and is good if you want lagoons with fewer people. Atins draws those looking for peace and quiet, beach and kitesurfing. A good combination is to split your trip between Barreirinhas and one of the other two.
Take your trash with you, follow the signs and support local businesses. In natural areas, follow the visiting guidelines.
Get your questions answered
The lagoons form with the rains, which run from January to May. They are full from June to September, at their best in July and August. From October on, the water drops, and by the end of the year many lagoons dry up. The volume varies from year to year, depending on how much it rains.
The standard tours are done in 4x4 vehicles from licensed companies, with a driver who knows the sand tracks. There are no roads inside the park, and driving a private car on the dunes is not allowed. Treks and long hikes should be done with a guide.
Barreirinhas is the most complete base, with more pousadas, restaurants and tours. Santo Amaro is closest to the big lagoons and less crowded. Atins is a quiet beach village, good for kitesurfing and for slowing down. If you have only a few days, stay in Barreirinhas.
It's not recommended. It's about 4 hours by road each way to Barreirinhas, and the lagoon tour takes another half day. On a single day, you spend most of the time in the car. Ideally, spend at least two nights in the area.
It's an area of dunes and lagoons between Paulino Neves and Barreirinhas, outside the national park, with scenery similar to the Lençóis and far fewer visitors. It lies on the way between the Lençóis and the Delta do Parnaíba, and it's a good stop if you're doing the Rota das Emoções (a route along the northeast coast).
