Thermal waters

Thermal water is groundwater that reaches the surface at a temperature higher than the surrounding air. In Brazil, the heating is almost always unrelated to active volcanoes: the water warms because it circulates deep underground, and the crust’s temperature increases with depth. Mineral composition varies from place to place, which gives each spring its own smell, taste and color.

The hydro-mineral resorts formed from the 19th century, when bathing seasons and drinking spring waters were a widespread custom. From that era remain the seaside spas, water parks with springs covered by pavilions, old hotels and bandstands. Today the demand is mainly for leisure and relaxation.

The Ministry of Tourism includes thermal and mineral waters under health tourism. Spa, massage and baths without thermal water belong to another type of trip, wellness and health, which fits well with this one.

Goiás has the best-known set. Caldas Novas and neighboring Rio Quente, at the foot of the Caldas hills, gather dozens of wells and springs that feed water parks, clubs and the pools of almost every hotel. In Rio Quente the water wells up in springs and forms a river of warm water. The region operates year-round and is one of the most visited leisure destinations in the Central-West.

In Minas Gerais, Poços de Caldas, on a plateau of ancient volcanic origin, has warm sulfurous waters with a characteristic smell, used in historic bathhouses in the city center. Araxá, in the state’s west, is known for waters used in baths, in a 1940s thermal complex. In southern Minas, São Lourenço, Caxambu and Lambari are part of the traditional water circuit, with parks of carbonated mineral springs for drinking.

In São Paulo, Olímpia, in the state’s northwest, grew around hot-water water parks and receives mainly families. The São Paulo interior also has a circuit of mineral-water resorts, with mild climate and a calm pace.

The choice of town defines the type of trip. Caldas Novas, Rio Quente and Olímpia are water-park destinations, bustling, with music and programming for children. Poços de Caldas, Araxá and the resorts of southern Minas have a slower pace, with bathhouses, parks, old architecture and outings to the surroundings.

Before booking, it’s worth checking where a hotel’s or park’s pool water comes from: whether it’s natural thermal water or heated. Parks and bathhouses charge separate entrance fees, and some limit the number of daily visitors: check the current schedule and, in high season, buy in advance.

In your bag: two swimsuits, flip-flops, a robe or cover-up for cool nights, sunscreen and a hat. Between baths, the custom is to rest in the shade and drink plenty of water.

Three to four days are enough to enjoy a thermal town. By car, the resorts in Minas Gerais and São Paulo are a few hours from the Southeast capitals; Caldas Novas is accessible by highway from Goiânia and Brasília.