Kohl und Pinkel is Bremen’s winter dish. The base is curly kale, which in much of Germany is called Grünkohl, green kale, and which in Bremen many people call Braunkohl, brown kale, because it darkens when cooked for a long time. The kale is slowly cooked with onion, lard or bacon and stock until tender and dark.
The star is the Pinkel, a smoked sausage made from pork meat or fat, oats or barley grains and spices. The name may cause giggles, but in Bremen it refers only to this traditional sausage. The complete dish also includes Kasseler, cured and smoked pork, pork belly and potatoes, sometimes caramelized in butter with sugar.
Bremen’s official portal says it is the city’s best-known specialty and that it appears on menus during the cold months, after the first frosts, when the kale becomes more flavorful. The dish is linked to the Kohlfahrt, the kale walk: groups of friends, colleagues or clubs walk through the fields and paths around the city, pulling a wheelbarrow with drinks and games, and end the day at a plentiful table of Kohl und Pinkel. At the end, the group crowns a king or queen of the kale, who organizes the next year’s walk.
The Kohlfahrt is seen as typically from Bremen, but the origin is attributed to the neighboring region of Oldenburg, where a gymnastics association reportedly held the first winter kale walk in 1871. Bremen’s representation in Berlin also organizes a Kohlfahrt each year with guests, which helped spread the custom beyond the city.