Pie and mash is a simple dish: an individual pie of minced beef in a firm pastry, served beside a scoop of mashed potato and topped with the liquor, a thin green parsley sauce. At the table, people season it with plain vinegar or chili vinegar. Eels, usually served cold in jelly, are the traditional side, ordered separately.
The dish originated in the East End of London. Eels and eel pies were sold on the streets before specialized shops appeared in the mid-19th century. Over time, the meat pie became the main item, and the liquor, originally made with eel stock, became the hallmark of the dish.
Three families shaped the history of these shops: the Cooke, Manze and Kelly families, who opened multiple outlets and passed the business down through generations. Michele Manze, born in southern Italy, opened his first shop in Bermondsey in 1902. The shops have a distinctive style, with white and green tiles, marble tables and wooden benches, and some are protected as architectural heritage.
At the end of the 19th century there were over a hundred pie and mash shops in London. The number dropped sharply with changes in the east and south neighborhoods where they were concentrated, but the dish is still served in traditional shops and is regarded as part of cockney identity.