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Drink · Japan
Nihonshu
Japanese sake, a fermented beverage made from rice, koji and water. It is an official geographical indication of Japan and is served chilled, at room temperature, or warm, in small cups.
Flavors · Kyoto
Saba-zushi
Salted and vinegar-marinated mackerel sushi on a rice log, wrapped in bamboo sheath. A celebratory dish of Kyoto, tied to the Saba Kaido, the route that brought mackerel from the Wakasa Sea.
Traditional dish from Kyoto, Kyoto
Also known as: Sabazushi, Saba sushi, さばずし, 鯖寿司
Illustrative images. The pictures in this guide are illustrations based on the real place, not photographs, and may differ from it.
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Saba-zushi — Kyoto, Japan
Saba-zushi is a log-shaped sushi. The mackerel is salted, filleted, washed and left in vinegar; then it is placed on a roll of seasoned rice, pressed in a bamboo mat and wrapped in bamboo sheath with some weight. The next day, once the flavors have melded, it is cut into thick slices.
According to the Ministry of Agriculture of Japan, mackerel used to be caught extensively in Wakasa Bay, on the Sea of Japan, and lost its freshness quickly. To carry it inland, the mackerel was salted, put in vinegar or grilled and transported along the routes between Wakasa (Obama) and the capital, Kyoto, known as Saba Kaido, the mackerel road. It is said that the salted mackerel reached Kyoto after two or three days with just the right amount of salt.
Saba-zushi arose during the Edo period and gave the people of Kyoto a way to enjoy a sea fish that was rare in the city. Along the Saba Kaido many mackerel dishes remained, and saba-zushi became the best known in Kyoto.
It is the city’s celebratory dish. At Kyoto’s three major festivals, Aoi Matsuri, Gion Matsuri and Jidai Matsuri, and at the prefecture’s autumn festivals, many families prepare their own saba-zushi to receive visitors. It is also sold by specialty shops, fishmongers and supermarkets.
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Where it comes from
Kyoto , Kyoto
Celebratory dish of Kyoto, tied to the Saba Kaido.
Ingredients
Salted mackerel, vinegar, rice seasoned with vinegar, sometimes pickled ginger; bamboo sheath for wrapping.
How it is eaten
In thick slices, plain or with a little soy sauce, at room temperature.
When it is eaten
All year; dish of Kyoto’s festivals (Aoi, Gion and Jidai) and of autumn celebrations.
Your questions
Questions about Saba-zushi
What is the Saba Kaido?
They are the old routes between Wakasa Bay, on the Sea of Japan, and Kyoto, along which salted mackerel was transported. Because of that, mackerel became a festive fish in the city and gave rise to saba-zushi.
When do you eat saba-zushi in Kyoto?
All year round, and especially at the city’s major festivals, such as Gion Matsuri, when many families prepare it to receive visitors.
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Dish · Japan
Ramen
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Dish · Japan
Tempura
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Dish · Akita
Kiritanpo nabe
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Sweet · Dazaifu
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Dish · Ehime
Tai-meshi
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Dish · Fukui
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Cold soba with grated daikon radish, quite spicy, cold broth, katsuobushi and green onion. It’s the most eaten soba in Fukui, served at weddings, at the end of the year and at winter Buddhist ceremonies.
Dish · Fukuoka
Hakata ramen
Rich, milky pork-bone broth ramen with thin, straight noodles, chashu and scallions. It’s named Hakata, another name for Fukuoka, and is eaten in ramen shops and the city’s yatai stalls.
Dish · Hiroshima
Okonomiyaki
Layered pancake cooked on the griddle: thin wheat batter, lots of cabbage, slices of pork, fried noodles and egg, with a thick sweet sauce. In Hiroshima, it’s everyday food, served in specialized restaurants and eaten with a spatula.
Dish · Hokkaido
Jingisukan
Grilled mutton or lamb on a rounded iron griddle, with vegetables that cook in the juices that run off. It’s Hokkaido’s best-known dish, eaten at home, in restaurants and on picnics.
Dish · Ise
Ise udon
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Dish · Iwate
Wanko soba
Soba served in one-bite portions in small bowls, refilled by the server until you cover the bowl. A tradition from Iwate that began as a way to welcome guests.
Dish · Kagawa
Sanuki udon
Kagawa udon: firm and elastic, with a smooth surface, served hot or cold, in iriko broth or simply with soy sauce. Kagawa is called the udon kingdom, with udon shops throughout the prefecture.
Drink · Kagoshima
Satsuma shochu
Sweet-potato shochu from Kagoshima, distilled using rice koji or sweet-potato koji. Satsuma is Japan’s official geographical indication for the shochu of the prefecture, which is enjoyed with hot water, on the rocks, or with cold water.
Sweet · Kagoshima
Shirokuma
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Dish · Kanagawa
Shirasu-don
Bowl of rice topped with shirasu — translucent sardine fry, raw or cooked — served with soy sauce and ginger. A coastal Shonan (Kanagawa) dish made with the day’s catch from Sagami Bay.
Dish · Kanazawa
Jibuni
Duck dusted in flour and cooked with sudare-fu (wheat gluten), vegetables and mushrooms in a slightly thickened shoyu broth, served with wasabi. A dish of Kaga cuisine, traditional in Kanazawa.
Dish · Kochi
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Dish · Koya
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Dish · Kumamoto
Karashi renkon
Lotus root with the holes filled with miso and Japanese mustard, breaded in a yellow batter and fried, served in slices. A dish from Kumamoto, traditionally linked to the Hosokawa lords.
Dish · Miyajima
Anago-meshi
Grilled conger (anago) with shoyu sauce, sliced and arranged over rice cooked in broth. A Miyajima specialty, sold since 1901 as a train-station snack at the boarding point for the island.
Dish · Miyazaki
Chikin nanban
Breaded and fried chicken, dipped in a sweet-and-sour vinegar sauce and topped with tartar sauce. A Miyazaki dish, originating in Nobeoka in the 1950s and 1960s.
Dish · Miyoshi
Iya soba
Thick, short soba made only from buckwheat from the Iya Valley, without binding wheat flour, served in hot broth with fried tofu, kamaboko, scallions and mountain greens. A dish from the Iya Valley, in Miyoshi.
Dish · Nagano
Oyaki
Dumpling made from wheat flour, sometimes mixed with buckwheat, filled with vegetables seasoned with miso or soy sauce, or with sweet bean paste; baked, steamed, or both. A dish from Nagano, from mountain villages.
Dish · Nagasaki
Champon
Thick noodles cooked in their own rich broth, with pork, seafood, kamaboko and many vegetables sautéed in the same pan. A Nagasaki dish tied to the city’s history as an open port.
Sweet · Nagasaki
Kasutera
Rectangular castella sponge cake, moist with a yellow crumb, made of eggs, sugar, flour and starch syrup, with the top and bottom well browned. A sweet from Nagasaki that arrived with the Portuguese in the 16th century.
Dish · Nagoya
Miso-nikomi udon
Firm udon, made without salt, cooked in an earthenware pot in a dark soy miso (haccho miso) broth, with chicken, fried tofu, scallion and egg. A dish from Nagoya and Aichi.
Dish · Nara
Kakinoha-zushi
Small pressed sushis of salted mackerel on seasoned rice, each wrapped in a persimmon leaf. A dish from Nara, served at the summer festivals of Gojō and Yoshino.
Drink · Okinawa
Awamori
Rice spirit from Okinawa, made with black koji and sometimes aged for years (kusu). Ryukyu is Japan’s official geographical indication for awamori from the prefecture.
Dish · Okinawa
Goya champuru
Stir-fry of goya, the bitter melão-de-são-caetano, with firm Okinawan tofu, egg and pork. It’s the best-known champuru from Okinawa, made at home and served in restaurants across the prefecture.
Dish · Okinawa
Okinawa soba
Thick wheat noodles, not buckwheat, in a pork-and-dried-bonito broth, topped with simmered pork belly, kamaboko, scallions and pickled red ginger. It’s an everyday dish in Okinawa.
Dish · Osaka
Takoyaki
Dough balls made from flour, egg and dashi with pieces of octopus, cooked on a griddle with round hollows and topped with sauce, mayonnaise, seaweed and dried bonito flakes. It’s Osaka’s best-known flavor.
Dish · Sendai
Gyutan
Sliced beef tongue, seasoned and grilled, served with barley rice, pickles and oxtail soup. It’s Sendai’s signature dish, created after World War II.
Dish · Shiga
Funazushi
Nigorobuna carp from Lake Biwa, salted and fermented for months with rice: an ancient form of sushi with a strong taste and aroma. A dish from Shiga, deeply rooted in the prefecture’s culture.
Dish · Shimane
Izumo soba
Dark, aromatic soba made from whole-ground buckwheat with the husk, served cold in stacks of round bowls (warigo) or hot, straight from the pot (kamaage). A dish from the Izumo region in Shimane.
Dish · Takayama
Hoba miso
Koji miso with scallion and mushrooms, roasted on a dry magnolia leaf (hoba) over a small tabletop brazier. A dish from the Hida-Takayama region in the mountains of Gifu.
Dish · Toyama
Masuzushi
Pressed sushi of cured trout on seasoned rice, in a round wooden box lined with bamboo leaves. It’s Toyama’s most famous dish, sold in specialty shops and as a train snack.
Dish · Tóquio
Edomae-zushi
Nigiri in the Edo style, from old Tokyo: a small ball of vinegar-seasoned rice topped with cured, cooked, marinated, or raw fish. It originated as street-vendor food and spread around the world.
Dish · Tóquio
Monjayaki
A very thin batter of wheat flour and broth, with cabbage and other ingredients, cooked on a griddle at the table and eaten bit by bit with small spatulas. A Tokyo dish associated with the Tsukishima neighborhood.
Dish · Yamagata
Imoni
Taro stew with meat, konnyaku and scallion, cooked in large pots on riverbanks in autumn at Yamagata’s imonikai. Inland it includes beef and shoyu; on the Shonai coast it uses pork and miso.
Dish · Yamanashi
Hoto
Thick, wide wheat dough cooked with pumpkin, vegetables and mushrooms in a miso broth, served in an iron pot. It is the most representative dish of Yamanashi, at the foot of Mount Fuji.
Beyond the guide
