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2 cities
Province · Costa do Egeu
Esmirna
Esmirna (İzmir) is the major city of the Turkish Aegean: the Kordon waterfront and the Kemeraltı bazaar, Ephesus and Şirince near Selçuk, Pergamon in Bergama, and the beaches of Çeşme and Alaçatı.
In the photo: Theatre of the Pergamon acropolis, Bergama (İzmir)
Illustrative images. The pictures in this guide are illustrations based on the real place, not photographs, and may differ from it.
The province
Get to know Esmirna
The province of Esmirna (İzmir) occupies the central part of the Aegean coast, around the Gulf of İzmir, with peninsulas, bays and valleys of olive groves and vineyards. The capital is Turkey’s third-largest city and the gateway to the coast.
In the city, the Kordon waterfront, the Clock Tower at Konak square, the Kemeraltı bazaar and the Roman agora reveal layers of history, and Kadifekale castle overlooks the gulf. The streets of Alsancak evoke the 19th-century port city.
To the south, in Selçuk, are Ephesus, a UNESCO site, with the Library of Celsus and the large theatre, the Basilica of St. John and the House of the Virgin Mary; up in the hills lies the village of Şirince. To the north, Bergama preserves Pergamon, also UNESCO-listed, with the theatre on the acropolis slope and the Asclepeion.
On the peninsula to the west, Çeşme has a castle and beaches, and Alaçatı has stone houses, windmills and a steady wind that draws windsurfers. Foça and Urla complete the coastline.
On the table are boyoz, a flaky breakfast pastry from Esmirna, the kumru sandwich of Çeşme, and Aegean herb meze dressed with olive oil.
Destinations
1 destination in Esmirna
Cities
2 cities in Esmirna in the guide
Esmirna
Selçuk
Selçuk is the nearby base for Ephesus and holds visits that deserve time outside the site: the Ephesus Museum, the Basilica of St. John and the İsa Bey mosque. The House of the Virgin Mary is on the hillside, with road access. It’s a choice for organizing archaeology by periods and avoiding doing everything between two transfers.
Esmirna
Şirince
Şirince sits on a rural hillside above Selçuk, with traditional houses and stone streets. The visit is done on foot and allows you to observe the village and the landscape, as well as the local commercial activity. It is a program of a few hours, which fits better into a day that is not heavy on archaeological sites.
When to go
April to June and September to October are usually the best times for the city, Ephesus and Pergamon. The beach season in Çeşme and Alaçatı generally runs from June to September; July and August are hot and busy. Alaçatı’s winds are typically stronger in summer. From November to March there is more rain.
Getting there
Adnan Menderes Airport (ADB) handles domestic and international flights and has a suburban train (İZBAN) to the city and to Selçuk. Check before booking. Long‑distance buses depart from İzmir’s bus terminal to destinations across the country. For Çeşme and Alaçatı there are buses along the peninsula road; for Bergama, regional buses.
Your questions
Frequently asked questions about Esmirna
How many days should I allow for Esmirna and its surroundings?
Five to seven days allow two days in the city, one or two in Selçuk for Ephesus and Şirince, one in Bergama, and two on the Çeşme–Alaçatı peninsula.
How do I get from Esmirna to Ephesus?
By suburban train (İZBAN) or regional train to Selçuk, or by road. From Selçuk to the Ephesus site take a taxi or a minibus depending on which entrance you choose.
Alaçatı or Çeşme: where to stay?
Alaçatı has the cluster of stone houses, restaurants and the windsurf bay; Çeşme has the castle, harbour and beaches such as Ilıca. They are close to each other and combine well.
What is boyoz?
It is a thin flaky pastry of Sephardic origin eaten for breakfast in Esmirna with a boiled egg and tea. You can find it in bakeries and street carts around the city.
Is Pergamon worth visiting?
Yes, for those who enjoy archaeology: the Pergamon acropolis in Bergama has a theatre on a very steep slope, the Temple of Trajan and valley views; below are the Asclepeion and the Red Basilica. Allow a day.