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Kagawa · Japan
The city of Ritsurin Garden and udon on Shikoku’s north coast, and the art island of Naoshima in the Inland Sea, with Tadao Ando museums and outdoor works.
In the photo: Takamatsu Castle tower beside the moat
Illustrative images. The pictures in this guide are illustrations based on the real place, not photographs, and may differ from it.
Get to know the place
Capital of Kagawa, Japan’s smallest prefecture, Takamatsu sits on Shikoku’s north coast facing the Seto Inland Sea. It is the main gateway to Shikoku by train from Okayama and has the port that serves the region’s islands. The city is known for Ritsurin Garden, one of the country’s most praised strolling gardens, and for Sanuki udon, the thick noodles that Kagawa eats at every meal.
Near the center are the ruins of Takamatsu Castle, with seawater moats, and to the east the Yashima plateau, where a famous 12th-century battle took place and which offers views of the sea dotted with islands. Temples from the 88-temple Shikoku pilgrimage appear in the city and its surroundings.
Naoshima lies about 13 km to the north, in the middle of the Inland Sea. Since the late 20th century the fishing island has become a contemporary art destination, with museums designed by Tadao Ando, such as Chichu and Benesse House, old houses turned into artworks in the Honmura neighborhood, and sculptures on the beach, including Yayoi Kusama’s yellow pumpkin. Some museum visits require reservations, and most of them are closed on Mondays.
The group is rounded out by other art islands like Teshima and Inujima, and by Shodoshima, the olive island. Every three years the islands host the Setouchi Triennale, featuring new works and increased visitorship.
This destination brings together 2 cities: Takamatsu, Naoshima.
One destination, many paths
Start with one city or combine several in your itinerary.
Dados cartográficos: © OpenStreetMap contributors, via Wambacher / geoBoundaries (ODbL 1.0). Adapted by Cidade Turismo.
✈ Aeroporto de Takamatsu (TAK) · 18 km to Takamatsu
From Okayama on the shinkansen line, the Marine Liner rapid train crosses the Seto Ohashi Bridge and reaches Takamatsu in about 55 minutes. Takamatsu Airport is about 18 km from the center. To Naoshima there are ferries and fast boats from Takamatsu in 30 to 50 minutes, and from Uno in Okayama in about 20 minutes.
Suggested arrival point: Takamatsu
Kagawa’s capital, Takamatsu opens onto the Inland Sea. It has the Ritsurin Garden, seaside castle ruins, the Yashima plateau and Sanuki udon shops everywhere. From the port beside the station, boats depart for Naoshima, Teshima, Shodoshima and the other islands.
Naoshima is a small island in the Inland Sea, between Takamatsu and Okayama, transformed into a contemporary art destination. It has museums by Tadao Ando, such as Chichu and Benesse House, and the Lee Ufan Museum; old houses converted into works in the Honmura neighborhood; seaside sculptures; and a public bathhouse that is itself an artwork. Miyanoura and Honmura are the two ports.
The local experience
A stroll garden of the Takamatsu feudal lords, at the foot of Mount Shiun, with six ponds, thirteen hills, arched bridges and trimmed pines; it has a tea house and boat rides.
A Tadao Ando museum built almost entirely underground, lit by natural light, with works by Claude Monet, James Turrell and Walter De Maria; entry is by timed ticket.
Tadao Ando’s contemporary art museum by the sea, in the south of Naoshima, with works indoors and outdoors, on the beach and in the woods, including Yayoi Kusama’s yellow pumpkin on the pier.
A lava plateau of about 290 meters east of Takamatsu, with the Yashima-ji temple of the Shikoku pilgrimage, viewpoints over the Inland Sea and the field of a 12th-century battle.
Old houses, a temple and a neighborhood shrine in Honmura transformed into artworks by artists such as James Turrell and Hiroshi Sugimoto, visited on foot along the village streets.
Seaside castle ruins in Tamamo Park, with sea-water moats where red sea bream swim, stone walls, two old towers and the Hiunkaku palace.
A Tadao Ando museum dedicated to the Korean artist Lee Ufan, in a valley between Chichu and Benesse House, with stones, iron plates and paintings in concrete rooms partly buried in the slope.
Before you go
A little planning leaves more time to enjoy the journey.
In spring and autumn the weather is usually mild and the sea calm for crossings. Summer is hot and humid, with rain in June and July. Kagawa is one of Japan’s driest prefectures. Typhoons, more common from August to October, can cancel boats.
The seasons shown are the most usual ones; nature doesn't always follow the calendar.
Three days allow one day in Takamatsu to see Ritsurin, Yashima and the udon, and two days in Naoshima with one night on the island. With two days, do one day in each place. If you want to include Teshima, add another day.
In Takamatsu the station and port area is most convenient for boats and trains; the shopping center with covered arcades is a few minutes away. In Naoshima there are guesthouses and family-run inns in Miyanoura and Honmura and a hotel-museum in the museum area; rooms are few and fill up early in high season.
Take your trash with you, follow the signs and support local businesses. In natural areas, follow the visiting guidelines.
Get your questions answered
Takamatsu has more hotels and transport and serves as the base for the islands. One night in Naoshima lets you see the museums at a relaxed pace and enjoy the island after the last boat, but accommodation is limited and needs to be booked.
The Chichu Art Museum operates with timed-entry tickets reserved online. Other venues accept visitors without reservation depending on capacity. Most museums are closed on Mondays; check the schedule before booking your trip.
Yes. From Takamatsu the boat takes 30 to 50 minutes; from Okayama you take a train to Uno and a ferry of about 20 minutes. One day covers two or three museums and the outdoor works.
No. In Takamatsu there are local trains, buses and rental bicycles. Naoshima is explored by bus, electric bicycle or on foot; part of the museum area has restricted car access.
It’s the thick, firm noodles of Kagawa, formerly the province of Sanuki. In Takamatsu there are udon shops in every neighborhood, many self-service, where you choose the size, broth and toppings at the counter.
Every three years, in three seasons: spring, summer and autumn. During those periods the islands receive temporary works and more visitors, and accommodations fill up early.
Beyond the guide
