Matsuyama and Shimanami Kaidō

Ehime · Japan

Matsuyama and Shimanami Kaidō

The largest city on Shikoku, with the castle atop the hill and the Dogo Onsen bathhouse, and the bridge-studded road that hops island to island to Hiroshima, made by bicycle.

Shikoku

In the photo: Kurushima Bridge over the Inland Sea

Illustrative images. The pictures in this guide are illustrations based on the real place, not photographs, and may differ from it.

Get to know the place

A region to enjoy
at your own pace.

On Shikoku’s northwest coast, Matsuyama is the capital of Ehime and the island’s largest city. In the center, a forested hill supports Matsuyama Castle, one of the twelve in Japan that still has its original main keep. To the east is Dogo Onsen, a hot-spring area mentioned in very old texts, with a wooden bathhouse from the late 19th century that became the city’s symbol.

The city has vintage trams, temples linked to Shikoku’s 88-temple pilgrimage, such as Ishite-ji, and a literary connection: the novel Botchan by Natsume Soseki is set there, and the poet Masaoka Shiki, a master of haiku, was born in Matsuyama. Ehime is the prefecture of mikan (tangerines), sold as juice and in sweets everywhere.

About 40 km to the north, Imabari is the starting — or ending — point of the Shimanami Kaido, the road that links Shikoku to Onomichi in Hiroshima, crossing six islands of the Inland Sea via seven large bridges. Alongside the highway there is a roughly 70 km cycle route, marked by a blue line, which has become one of Japan’s best-known bike routes. On the islands there are beaches, citrus orchards, the Oyamazumi shrine and the history of the Murakami pirates.

Imabari also has a seaside castle with saltwater moats and is known for its cotton towels and teppanyaki-grilled chicken. The destination thus combines two trips: the hot-spring city and the island crossing.

This destination brings together 2 cities: Matsuyama, Imabari.

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One destination, many paths

The cities on this trip

Start with one city or combine several in your itinerary.

Where Matsuyama and Shimanami Kaidō is
ImabariMatsuyama

Dados cartográficos: © OpenStreetMap contributors, via Wambacher / geoBoundaries (ODbL 1.0). Adapted by Cidade Turismo.

How to get there: Matsuyama and Shimanami Kaidō

✈ Aeroporto de Matsuyama (MYJ) · 9 km to Matsuyama

The Shiokaze limited express connects Okayama, on the shinkansen line, to Matsuyama in about 2 hours 45 minutes, passing through Imabari. Matsuyama Airport is about 6 km from the center, with flights from Tokyo, Osaka and other cities. From Hiroshima there are ferries to Matsuyama’s port. Onomichi, on the other end of the Shimanami, is on the Sanyo line.

Suggested arrival point: Matsuyama

The local experience

Things to do in Matsuyama and Shimanami Kaidō

Matsuyama Castle
Matsuyama · Ehime · Castle

Matsuyama Castle

One of the twelve Japanese castles with an original main keep, on top of Mount Katsuyama in the city center; you can reach it by ropeway or gondola and see the Inland Sea from above.

Shimanami Kaido
Imabari · Ehime · Bicycle route

Shimanami Kaido

Road of about 60 km between Imabari and Onomichi, across six islands and seven bridges, with a bike path of roughly 70 km marked by a blue line and bicycle rental stations.

Imabari Castle
Imabari · Ehime · Castle

Imabari Castle

A seaside castle built by Todo Takatora in the early 17th century, with wide saltwater moats, stone walls and a reconstructed keep with a museum; sea fish swim in the moats.

Dogo Onsen Honkan
Matsuyama · Ehime · Bathhouse

Dogo Onsen Honkan

A wooden public bathhouse from 1894 in Dogo Onsen, one of Japan’s oldest hot springs; it has resting rooms, an imperial room and a drum that marks the mornings.

See 2 more places in Matsuyama and Shimanami Kaidō
Ōyamazumi Shrine
Imabari · Ehime · Shrine

Ōyamazumi Shrine

Shrine on Omishima Island, on the Shimanami Kaido, dedicated to the deity of mountains and the sea, with a millennia-old camphor tree and a museum of ancient armor and swords.

Ishite-ji Temple
Matsuyama · Ehime · Temple

Ishite-ji Temple

Temple 51 of the Shikoku 88-temple pilgrimage, near Dogo Onsen, with a 14th-century Niomon gate, a National Treasure, a three-story pagoda and a dark cave behind the courtyard.

Before you go

Practical information

A little planning leaves more time to enjoy the journey.

When to go

The best temperatures for cycling usually run from March to May and from October to November. Summer is hot and humid, with strong sun on the bridges. The rainy season covers June and July, and between August and October a typhoon can close the bridges to cyclists. In winter, the wind on the bridges is cold and strong.

The seasons shown are the most usual ones; nature doesn't always follow the calendar.

How many days to stay

Three days allow one day in Matsuyama, covering the castle and Dogo Onsen, and two days for the Shimanami Kaido, cycling with an overnight on one of the islands. With two days, do the city and one section of the route starting from Imabari, as far as Oshima or Omishima.

Which city to stay in

In Matsuyama, the Dogo Onsen area has ryokan and hot-spring hotels about 20 minutes by tram from the center; the downtown area, near the Okaido arcade, has convenient hotels. In Imabari there are hotels near the station and the Itoyama cyclist terminal by the bridge. On the islands, small guesthouses and homestays cater to cyclists.

Respect the place

Take your trash with you, follow the signs and support local businesses. In natural areas, follow the visiting guidelines.

Get your questions answered

Frequently asked questions about Matsuyama and Shimanami Kaidō

Do I have to cycle the entire Shimanami Kaido?

No. You can do just one section, return the bike at one of the island terminals and continue by bus or ferry. The full route, about 70 km, is usually done in one or two days.

Where can I rent a bicycle for the Shimanami Kaido?

At terminals along the route, in Imabari, on the islands and in Onomichi. Many accept returns at a different terminal for a fee. There are standard bikes, electric bikes and road bikes; book in high season.

Can I cross the Shimanami Kaido without a bike?

Yes: by express bus between Imabari and Onomichi or Fukuyama via the highway, or by car. There are also local buses on the islands and ferries between them.

How many days should I stay in Matsuyama?

One day covers the castle, Dogo Onsen and Ishite-ji. With an extra day, add the Imabari bridges or the town of Uchiko, about 30 minutes by train.

Does Matsuyama go well with Hiroshima?

Yes. Ferries link Matsuyama’s port to Hiroshima, passing near Kure, and the Shimanami Kaido ends in Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture, about an hour by train from the city.

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Beyond the guide