Dakos starts from paximadi, a baked barley bread that is sliced and baked again until completely dry. In Crete, where fresh bread wasn’t always available in the countryside and mountains, these hard rusks were kept for months. The culinary portal of Greek broadcaster SKAI describes the barley rusk as an ancient survival food of Cretans.
To make dakos, the rusk is quickly passed under water, just to soften the surface, and topped with grated ripe tomato, including the juice. Over that goes fresh mizithra (or crumbled feta), dried oregano and plenty of olive oil. Black olives and capers complete the dish in many versions. The rusk soaks up the tomato and oil and becomes soft on top while still crunchy underneath.
The name varies across the island. Dakos or ntakos is the most common form; koukouvagia, “owl,” is another name used in Crete, and in the eastern part of the island the rusk is also called kouloukopsomo.
Dakos is served as meze with tsikoudia or wine, and also as a light summer meal (June to August), when tomatoes are at their best.