Bougatsa is a pie made with very thin phyllo pastry that the baker stretches until nearly transparent and folds into several layers around the filling. After baking, it is cut into small pieces with a wide knife. The sweet version contains semolina custard made with milk, eggs and sugar and is sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon on top. Savory versions are filled with cheese, ground meat or spinach.
The origin is told two ways. Thessaloniki’s official tourism guide says the pie arrived with the Ottomans. The Greek Gastronomy Guide traces the dough to Byzantine tradition and connects the name to the Turkish poğaça. Both sources agree that the refugees from Asia Minor who arrived after the 1923 population exchange established bougatsa in northern Greece, bringing the recipe especially to Serres and Thessaloniki.
In Thessaloniki, bougatsa is part of the morning routine. shops that make it open early and sell the pie by weight or portion, to eat on site or to take away wrapped in paper. The pastry should be crispy on the outside and soft next to the filling.