Umngqusho is made with samp, peeled and cracked white maize kernels, and beans, usually sugar beans. The two cook together over low heat for hours, with water added gradually, until the kernels are soft and the broth is absorbed. At the end, butter or fat, salt and, in many homes, sautéed onion are added, and the mixture is lightly mashed. The result is a thick, creamy dish with a mild flavor.
It is a Xhosa dish from the Eastern Cape, the province where Nelson Mandela was born and raised. In the past, maize was pounded by hand in a mortar and winnowed to remove the husk; today samp is sold already processed. Records in the Dictionary of South African English show umngqusho in the Eastern Cape as everyday and celebratory country food, cooked in large iron pots over the fire for community gatherings.
After leaving prison in 1990, Mandela said umngqusho was his favorite food. The cook who worked for him for about 20 years, Xoliswa Ndoyiya, included the recipe in the book she wrote about the household cooking.
The same dish exists in other parts of the country under other names, such as isitambu among the Zulu of KwaZulu-Natal. Cook and writer Dorah Sitole called the Xhosa the guardians of umngqusho.