Province · Anatólia Central
Sivas
Sivas has the Great Mosque and Hospital of Divriği, a World Heritage site, Seljuk madrasas with carved stone portals, and Kangal’s thermal fish spring.
Illustrative images. The pictures in this guide are illustrations based on the real place, not photographs, and may differ from it.
The province
Get to know Sivas
Sivas lies in central-eastern Anatolia, on a high cold plateau where the Kızılırmak river originates. The provincial capital was an important Seljuk city and preserves, near the central square, a group of 13th-century madrasas: the Gök Medrese, with a carved portal and blue tiles; the Çifte Minareli Medrese, of which the façade with two minarets remains; and the Şifaiye Medresesi, a former hospital.
In Divriği, about 170 km from the capital, the Great Mosque and Hospital (Ulu Camii ve Darüşşifası), dated 1228, were among the first Turkish sites inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1985. The stone portals have high-relief carvings with vegetal and geometric motifs unparalleled in Anatolia. Between May and September, in the late afternoon, the shadow on the west portal forms the silhouette of a person praying.
In Kangal, the Balıklı Kaplıca is a warm-water spring where small fish nibble the skin of bathers. The district also gives its name to the kangal, the region’s shepherd dog.
Sivas is a stop on the Doğu Ekspresi, the train between Ankara and Kars that also passes through Divriği. At the table, Sivas köftesi and madımak, a sautéed local herb, are typical dishes.
When to go
May to September usually has the most pleasant days, with cool nights even in summer. It’s also the season to see the shadow on the Divriği portal. Winter is long and cold, with snow and below-freezing temperatures.
Getting there
Nuri Demirağ Airport (VAS) handles domestic flights, mainly from Istanbul and Ankara. The high-speed train links Ankara to Sivas in about two hours, passing through Kırıkkale and Yozgat. Divriği has a station on the line to Erzincan and Kars and can also be reached by bus or car.
Your questions
Frequently asked questions about Sivas
Is Divriği doable as a day trip from Sivas?
Yes, by car, but it makes for a long day with several hours on the road each way. Travelers by train can time it with the Doğu Ekspresi schedule or sleep overnight in Divriği.
When does the shadow appear on the Divriği portal?
Between May and September, in the late afternoon, the shadow cast on the west portal resembles the silhouette of a person praying. The effect depends on the sun; ask locally for the best time.
What is Kangal’s Balıklı Kaplıca?
It is a warm-water spring inhabited by small fish that nibble the skin of those who enter the water. It is in the Kangal district, south of Sivas, and has pools and on-site accommodation.
How many days should I set aside for Sivas?
One day for the capital’s madrasas and another for Divriği. With a third day, include Kangal.
