Salvador

Religious festival · Salvador

Washing of Bonfim

A walking procession of several kilometers from Cidade Baixa to the Sacred Hill in Salvador, where baianas dressed in white wash the steps of the Basilica of the Senhor do Bonfim with scented water.

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Bahia
Bahia
Washing of Bonfim — Salvador
Washing of Bonfim
Washing of Bonfim — Salvador
Washing of Bonfim
Washing of Bonfim — Salvador
Washing of Bonfim
Washing of Bonfim — Salvador
Washing of Bonfim

Washing of Bonfim — Salvador

When

On the Thursday before the second Sunday after Epiphany (January 6), which is the Sunday of the Feast of the Lord of Bonfim; therefore it always takes place in January, usually on the second or third Thursday of the month.

January

Where

Salvador

Bahia

Dates change every year: check this year's date before you travel.

The festival

What is Washing of Bonfim

The Washing of Bonfim is the popular highlight of the Feast of the Senhor do Bonfim, the Catholic celebration that closes the Christmas cycle in Salvador. The festival lasts about ten days in January, with novenas and masses, and ends on the second Sunday after Epiphany, the Day of the Senhor do Bonfim. The Washing takes place on the preceding Thursday and brings together faithful, residents and visitors dressed in white.

The custom dates back to the 18th century. Before the festival, the church was washed and decorated; according to historical accounts, the task fell to enslaved people and pilgrims, under the direction of the brotherhood of the Senhor do Bonfim. Over time, the cleaning became a procession and acquired its present meaning: in Bahia’s religious syncretism, the Senhor do Bonfim is associated with Oxalá, and the Washing blends Catholicism and candomblé. In 2013, the Feast of the Senhor do Bonfim was entered in the national intangible heritage register kept by Iphan.

Early in the morning, after an inter-religious ceremony on the forecourt of the Basilica of Our Lady of the Conception of the Beach (Basílica de Nossa Senhora da Conceição da Praia), in the Comércio neighborhood, the procession follows through Cidade Baixa to the Itapagipe Peninsula. Leading the way are the baianas, wearing full skirts and carrying quartinhas (small jars) of scented water and flowers; behind them come decorated carts, afoxé groups, fanfares, blocos and a crowd walking and singing. At the top of the hill, the baianas pour the perfumed water over the steps and the forecourt of the basilica, and many people receive scented water.

After the washing, the celebration continues in Largo do Bonfim and nearby streets, with stalls, music and samba circles into the night. It is also the day to tie the Senhor do Bonfim ribbons to the church railings — colorful strips bearing the saint’s name that are tied on the wrist while making three wishes. For visitors to Salvador in January, the Washing shows in a single day the city’s religiosity, music and street life.

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What not to miss

The departure of the procession in the morning, in front of Conceição da Praia, with the baianas in line. The arrival at the Sacred Hill and the washing of the steps. The Senhor do Bonfim ribbons tied to the railings. On the following Sunday, the solemn Mass of the Day of the Senhor do Bonfim at the basilica.

How to enjoy it

Wear white clothing, like most participants, and comfortable shoes: the route is several kilometers long, under the sun. Bring water, sunscreen and a hat. If you don’t want to walk the whole way you can wait for the procession at a point in Cidade Baixa or go straight to Largo do Bonfim. The streets along the route are closed to traffic; prefer arriving on foot or arrange your return in advance.

What to eat

Acarajé and abará sold by the baianas on their trays, cocada, grilled queijo coalho and fruit sold along the route; in Largo do Bonfim there are stalls offering Bahian food.

Plan ahead

January is high season in Salvador because of vacations and summer. Book accommodation early and check the exact day, which is set by the liturgical calendar.

In the city

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Your questions

Questions about Washing of Bonfim

When is the Washing of Bonfim?

On a Thursday in January: the one preceding the second Sunday after Epiphany, January 6, which is the Sunday of the Feast of the Senhor do Bonfim. Therefore the date varies from year to year.

What is the route of the Washing of Bonfim?

The procession begins at Conceição da Praia, the basilica in the Comércio neighborhood, and continues through Cidade Baixa to the Basilica of the Senhor do Bonfim on the Sacred Hill — a route of several kilometers.

Why do people wear white at the Washing of Bonfim?

White is the color of Oxalá, the orixá associated with the Senhor do Bonfim in Bahian syncretism, and the color of peace. Most participants, religious or not, wear white.

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