Smoked meat

Smoked meat is made from the whole beef brisket, including the fattier parts. The meat is covered in salt and spices, with plenty of black pepper, and undergoes a cure whose duration varies by method before being hot-smoked and cooked. When served, it is warmed in steam and sliced into pieces that almost fall apart.

In Quebec the dish is called by its English name: the term smoked meat is accepted by the Office québécois de la langue française, and in French it is also referred to as viande fumée. It is related to pastrami but uses the whole brisket, has less sugar in the seasoning and has its own distinct flavor and texture. The seasoning is reminiscent of Montreal steak spice, a blend known throughout the country.

The smoked meat was brought by Jewish immigrants from Romania and other parts of Eastern Europe. A Romanian butcher who opened the city’s first kosher butcher shop in 1884 is often credited as a precursor, and advertisements for smoked meat appear in Montreal from the late 19th century. Delicatessens dispute the title of first; the exact origin is uncertain. Ready-to-go portions spread in the early 20th century among factory workers in the Saint-Laurent boulevard area, who had little time to eat.

The sandwich stacks hot slices between two slices of rye bread with yellow mustard, and traditionally contains no cheese, a legacy of kosher practice, although most places today do not follow that rule. Diners usually choose the doneness of the meat: lean, medium (the most ordered), or fatty. French fries, coleslaw and a dill pickle accompany it, and a black cherry soda is the traditional pairing at several establishments.