The cheese roll is a slice of white sandwich bread covered with a creamy cheese mixture, rolled and toasted on a grill or in the oven until crisp on the outside. The most common filling today includes grated cheese, dehydrated onion soup mix and evaporated milk, sometimes with chopped onion. Every family and every cook has their own recipe.
In Southland, the country’s southernmost region, the cheese roll is treated as a local tradition. The regional tourism organization presents it as the Southland cheese roll and recommends trying it in cafés, bakeries, bars and restaurants throughout the region. The nickname southern sushi, or Southland sushi, comes from the constant presence of the rolls in shop windows. They also appear at school fairs, sporting events and family gatherings, and are sold frozen in large quantities to raise funds. In Invercargill, the region’s main city, the city council once placed the creation of the cheese roll on a plaque among the three most notable events in local history.
The origin has no date or single author. Researcher Helen Leach of the University of Otago saw the cheese roll as the natural evolution of recipes rather than a single invention. Newspapers in the country published recipes called cheese rolls from the early 20th century that were different dishes. In the 1930s appear recipes of rolled bread with cheese toasted. A church cookbook from Dunedin, from the early 1950s, contains one of the oldest known versions, with mustard, vinegar and Worcestershire sauce. In 1964, a cookbook published in Bluff, in Southland, put raw onion and egg in the filling, and the version with dehydrated onion soup mix and evaporated milk appears, according to Leach, in a 1972 book from Wānaka.
Popularity grew after sliced sandwich bread became common in the 1950s. Today there are versions with lobster, chorizo, sheep’s milk cheese and even deep-fried varieties, alongside the traditional recipe. The cheese roll is also common in Otago, the neighboring region, but it is in Southland that it became a symbol.