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Before you go
Your trip to Cabaceiras.
Illustrative images. The pictures in this guide are illustrations based on the real place, not photographs, and may differ from it.
Cabaceiras – PB Destination Cariri Paraibano about 180 km from João Pessoa
How to get there
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Aeroporto João Suassuna (CPV) Campina Grande · 70 km
Approximate distances. Check flights and bus, train or boat schedules before you travel.
From João Pessoa it’s about 180 km: take the BR-230 to Campina Grande and continue on state highways to Cabaceiras, roughly 70 km further. The nearest airport is Campina Grande; João Pessoa’s airport has more flights. There is intercity transport from Campina Grande with few departures. Confirm the route and schedules before you leave.
How many days
Two days allow time to see the historic center, the Cinematographic Memorial, Lajedo de Pai Mateus in the late afternoon and the Saca de Lã the next morning. With three days you’ll have time for Ribeira and other lajedos in the region. Many people make a day trip from Campina Grande, but the sunset at the lajedo calls for an overnight stay.
When to go
The town receives visitors year-round. The limited rain usually falls in a few weeks of the first semester; for the rest of the year days are dry with strong sun, and nights are cooler because of the plateau’s altitude. The Festa do Bode Rei usually takes place in early June, when the town fills up and accommodation is in high demand.
The seasons shown are the most usual ones; nature doesn't always follow the calendar.
Do you need a car?
Yes, in practice. The center can be explored on foot, but Lajedo de Pai Mateus, the Saca de Lã and Ribeira are in the countryside, on stretches of dirt road passable with a regular car. There is no regular transport to the lajedos. Without a car, the alternative is hiring a local tour driver in town.
Suggested itinerary
An order that works
Built with the places on this page. No rush: it's paced so you have time to see them.
One day in Cabaceiras
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Morning
Historic downtown
Start at the central square and the Mother Church of Our Lady of Conception, with its blue façade, and walk through the colorful row houses where scenes from O Auto da Compadecida were filmed.
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Afternoon
Memorial and Ribeira
Visit the Cinematographic Memorial, have a goat dish for lunch, and head to the district of Ribeira to see the work of tanneries and leather workshops.
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Late afternoon
Lajedo de Pai Mateus
Take the guided visit to Lajedo de Pai Mateus on the last departure of the afternoon and stay on the top of the slab until the sun sets over the caatinga.
2 days in Cabaceiras
Day 1
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Morning
Saca de Lã
Leave early for the Saca de Lã and hike among the stacked granite blocks before the heat intensifies.
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Afternoon
Town of films
Return to the center, enter the Cinematographic Memorial and look for the façades and corners that appear in the films shot in town.
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Late afternoon
Welcome sign at the entrance
Pass by the Roliúde Nordestina sign at the town entrance and end the day in the square, when activity increases as the heat fades.
Day 2
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Morning
Lajedo with guide
Take the guided visit to Lajedo de Pai Mateus in the morning, with good light to observe the Pedra do Capacete and the rock paintings.
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Afternoon
Ribeira leather
Head to Ribeira, where cooperatives of tanners and artisans sell sandals, bags and pieces made from goat leather.
Check before you go. Opening hours and days change, and places may close for renovations, holidays or events. This itinerary is a suggestion from Cidade Turismo, not a commitment: plan yours by checking directly with each place you intend to visit.
Before you go
Frequently asked questions
Why is Cabaceiras called Roliúde Nordestina?
Because the town and its countryside have served as settings for dozens of films and series, notably O Auto da Compadecida, filmed in the historic center. The nearly constant sun and the Cariri landscape attract productions. A sign with the nickname stands at the town entrance.
Is it true that Cabaceiras is the town with the least rainfall in Brazil?
That is how the municipality is usually described. Studies published in the Revista Brasileira de Geografia Física, based on decades of measurements, indicate an annual average around 300 millimeters, one of the lowest in the country. In some years it rains much less than that.
What is the distance from João Pessoa to Cabaceiras?
About 180 km. The most common route follows the BR-230 to Campina Grande and continues on state roads for roughly 70 km.
When is the Festa do Bode Rei?
The festival usually takes place in early June, over four days, with concerts, an exhibition of goats and sheep, goat-based foods and leather crafts. Dates are announced each year on the city hall calendar; book accommodation in advance.
Do you need a car to visit Cabaceiras?
For the lajedos, yes, or a local driver. The historic center can be visited on foot, but Lajedo de Pai Mateus and the Saca de Lã are in the countryside, with no regular transport.