Aix-en-Provence: Cours Mirabeau, old town and markets
From Center of Aix-en-Provence On foot through the historic center about 4 hours morning easy
Aix-en-Provence is about 30 km from Marseille. The walk starts at the Cours Mirabeau, an avenue 440 m long and 42 m wide opened in 1649 on the site of the old southern wall, lined with plane trees, fountains and 17th–18th century mansions. To the south is the Mazarin quarter, with straight streets and the Hôtel de Caumont, an 18th‑century mansion that hosts art exhibitions. To the north, the narrow streets of the old town lead to the Place des Prêcheurs and Place Richelme, where fruit, vegetable, flower and Provençal product markets take place, and to the Cathédrale Saint‑Sauveur, which brings together parts from several eras, from the ancient baptistery to the Romanesque cloister. The Musée Granet, in the Mazarin quarter, houses European paintings and works by Cézanne. On market days the center is livelier in the morning.
Stops: Cours Mirabeau, Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur, Musée Granet, Hôtel de Caumont, Place Richelme.
Includes: The walk is free. The Musée Granet and the Hôtel de Caumont charge admission. Check the current table.
Tip: Go in the morning, when the markets are set up. The streets in the center are pedestrian; those arriving by car park in the lots on the edge of the center.
Best time: All year. In spring and autumn the weather is mild; in July the city hosts the Festival d'Aix-en-Provence, an opera festival, and becomes crowded.
Aix of Cézanne: Atelier des Lauves, Jardin des Peintres and Bibémus
From Center of Aix-en-Provence On foot or by city bus to the Colline des Lauves about 3 hours morning or afternoon easy (incline up to the hill)
Paul Cézanne was born and worked in Aix. In 1901 he bought land on the Colline des Lauves, north of the center, and there built the studio where he painted until he died in 1906. The Atelier des Lauves preserves the space as he left it: the large stained window that lights the room, furniture and objects that appear in his still lifes. A little higher up is the Jardin des Peintres, a viewpoint over the Montagne Sainte-Victoire, the subject of dozens of his paintings. East of the city, the Carrières de Bibémus are old ochre stone quarries where Cézanne rented a small house and painted; visits are guided. The Bastide du Jas de Bouffan, the family home for 40 years, also opens for visits part of the year.
Stops: Atelier de Cézanne, Jardin des Peintres, Carrières de Bibémus, Bastide du Jas de Bouffan.
Includes: Atelier des Lauves and Carrières de Bibémus require tickets and mandatory reservations, with limited places. The Jardin des Peintres has free access. Check the current schedule.
Tip: Book in advance: the workshop and Bibémus time slots sell out. The Atelier des Lauves and the Jas de Bouffan are open during certain periods of the year, not year-round: confirm dates before planning your route.
Best time: Spring and autumn, with light similar to that in the paintings and less heat. Confirm opening dates for each site.
Montagne Sainte-Victoire: trail to the Croix de Provence
From Aix‑en‑Provence Car or bus to the base of the hill and hiking on foot about 5 hours full day moderate (steep ascent up to 946 m)
The Montagne Sainte-Victoire is the limestone massif east of Aix that Cézanne painted dozens of times. The ridge is visible from the city. The highest point is the Pic des Mouches, at 1,011 m, on the eastern end; the Croix de Provence, at 946 m, is the summit visible from Aix on the western end and is the most common destination. The classic trail climbs the north side on a stone path, passes the former priory of Sainte-Victoire, built around a 17th-century chapel, and reaches the cross, with views over Aix, the Arc valley and, in clear weather, the sea. There are also shorter routes around Lac de Bimont and Lac Zola at the foot of the massif, with views of the mountain. The whole area suffered large fires in the 20th century, and in summer a lookout near the cross monitors the massif.
Stops: Montagne Sainte-Victoire, Croix de Provence, Prieuré de Sainte-Victoire, Lac de Bimont, Pic des Mouches.
Includes: There is no ticket. Bring water, food and hiking footwear: nothing is sold on the mountain.
Tip: From June 1 to September 30, access to the massifs in the Bouches-du-Rhône depends on the day’s fire risk and can be prohibited: check the day before. Start early to avoid the heat. In strong mistral winds, avoid the ridge.
Best time: Spring (March to May) and autumn (October and November). In summer the heat is strong and access can be closed on days with fire risk.
Roman and Romanesque Arles: arena, theater, cryptoporticoes and Saint-Trophime
From Arles city center On foot through the historic center about 5 hours full day easy
Arles, on the banks of the Rhône, preserves a group of Roman and Romanesque monuments inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1981. The center is dominated by the Amphithéâtre (the Arènes), built around 80–90 AD, 136 m long, with two tiers of arcades and capacity for about 25,000 spectators; it still hosts performances and bullfights. Beside it is the Théâtre antique, from the 1st century BC, of which the seating and two stage columns remain. Under the town hall are the Cryptoportiques, underground galleries that supported the forum. By the river are the Thermes de Constantin, from the 4th century. The Église Saint-Trophime has a Romanesque portal carved with the Last Judgment and a cloister dating from the 12th–14th centuries. Outside the center, Les Alyscamps is the ancient necropolis, with an avenue of sarcophagi. The Musée départemental Arles antique, on the Rhône’s edge, brings together statues, mosaics and a Roman boat recovered from the river.
Stops: Amphithéâtre d'Arles, Théâtre antique d'Arles, Cryptoportiques, Thermes de Constantin, Église Saint-Trophime, Les Alyscamps, Musée départemental Arles antique.
Includes: Each monument has an admission fee; there are passes that cover several sites. The portal of Saint-Trophime can be seen from the square. Check the current pricing.
Tip: Start at the arena very early and leave the archaeology museum, which is outside the center, for the afternoon. In summer the stones get hot: bring a hat and water.
Best time: Spring and autumn. From July to September the city hosts the Rencontres d'Arles photography festival and gets very busy: confirm the dates.
Arles of Van Gogh and art: Espace Van Gogh, Fondation and LUMA
From Arles city center On foot through the center and to the Parc des Ateliers about 4 hours afternoon easy
Vincent van Gogh lived in Arles in 1888 and 1889 and painted some of his best-known works there. The city marks the places he depicted with panels. The Espace Van Gogh is housed in the former hospital where he was interned, with the courtyard garden replanted as in the painting. The Place du Forum has the café that appears in "Café Terrace at Night." The Fondation Vincent van Gogh Arles organizes exhibitions that place the painter’s works alongside contemporary artists; the Van Gogh paintings on display change with each exhibition. Southeast of the center, LUMA Arles occupies the Parc des Ateliers, former railway workshops, with seven renovated halls and a metal tower designed by Frank Gehry. The park hosts exhibitions, presentations and conferences.
Stops: Espace Van Gogh, Fondation Vincent van Gogh Arles, Place du Forum, LUMA Arles, Parc des Ateliers.
Includes: The courtyard of the Espace Van Gogh is freely accessible. The Fondation charges admission. LUMA has its own access rules for each exhibition. Check the current table.
Tip: Check in advance which Van Gogh works are at the Fondation: they vary by exhibition. Go up the LUMA tower to see Arles and the Camargue from above.
Best time: All year. In summer, museums are a refuge from the afternoon heat.
Camargue: Parc ornithologique du Pont de Gau and Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
From Arles Car or regular bus to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer about 7 hours full day easy
The Camargue is the Rhône delta, south of Arles: lagoons, salt pans, rice fields and pastures of white horses and black bulls. The road from Arles to the sea crosses this plain. Just before the coast is the Parc ornithologique du Pont de Gau, with 60 hectares of lagoon, marsh and reedbeds, crossed by flat trails. It is the easiest place to see Camargue birds up close, including pink flamingos, which are often present in large numbers but vary with the season. At the end of the road is Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, the main village of the Camargue and a place of pilgrimage, built around a fortified church from the 11th–12th centuries. From the church roof you can see the sea and the plain. The village has beaches, narrow streets and horseback and boat rides along the canals.
Stops: Camargue, Parc ornithologique du Pont de Gau, Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, Église des Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer.
Includes: The Pont de Gau Park has an entrance fee; the climb to the church roof is also charged. Horseback rides and boat trips are paid separately. Check the current schedule.
Tip: Bring insect repellent: there are many mosquitoes from April to October. To see birds, arrive early or late in the afternoon. Between Arles and Saintes-Maries there is no train; there is a daily bus line, but a car gives more freedom.
Best time: Spring and autumn for the birds and the light; in summer the beach fills up and the heat is strong.
Les Baux-de-Provence and Carrières des Lumières
From Arles or Avignon Drive through the Alpilles about 4 hours morning or afternoon easy (inclines in the village)
Les Baux-de-Provence sits in the Alpilles massif, between Arles and Avignon, on a rocky spur 200 m above the plain. The village is listed among the Plus Beaux Villages de France and attracts many visitors. You climb narrow stone lanes up to the Château des Baux, a ruined fortress atop the rock, with views over the southern plains, Arles and the Camargue. Just below the village, in the Val d'Enfer, are the Carrières des Lumières, former limestone quarries where images of painters’ works are projected onto the walls and floor, with music, in tall stone halls. The program changes every year and alternates more than one exhibition on different weekdays.
Stops: Les Baux-de-Provence, Château des Baux-de-Provence, Carrières des Lumières, Val d'Enfer, Alpilles.
Includes: The Château des Baux and the Carrières des Lumières have separate tickets; the Carrières sell timed-entry tickets. Check the current schedule.
Tip: Buy tickets for the Carrières in advance, especially during European holidays. Inside the quarries the temperature is low: bring a layer, even in summer. Arrive early to the village to park.
Best time: The Carrières are open year-round. In the village, spring and autumn are quieter than July and August.
Avignon: Palais des Papes, Pont Saint-Bénézet and Rocher des Doms
From Avignon city center On foot within the city walls about 4 hours morning easy
Avignon was the papal seat in the 14th century. The Palais des Papes, the largest Gothic building of the Middle Ages, combines the old palace of Benedict XII, a fortress on the Rocher des Doms, and the new palace of Clement VI. The route goes through 25 rooms, including the Cour d'honneur, the great chapel, the pope's apartments and frescoes by painters of the Sienese school, such as Matteo Giovanetti. The visit uses a smartphone app with videos and audio, and includes the Jardins pontificaux. Next door, the Rocher des Doms garden is a park atop the rock with views over the Rhône and the Pont Saint-Bénézet. The bridge, the “Avignon bridge” from the song, had 22 arches and about 920 m when completed in 1185; four arches and 160 m remain, with the chapel of Saint-Nicolas on one of the piers. Finish at the Place de l'Horloge, the main square.
Stops: Palais des Papes, Jardins pontificaux, Pont Saint-Bénézet, Rocher des Doms, Place de l'Horloge.
Includes: The Palais des Papes requires an entrance ticket; there is a combined ticket with the Pont Saint-Bénézet and the gardens. Access to the Rocher des Doms is free. Check the current rates.
Tip: Bring headphones for the tour app. Start early to avoid queues. The palace also offers guided visits, including night visits on certain dates.
Best time: All year. In July, during the Festival d'Avignon, the Cour d'honneur becomes a stage and the city fills up.
Pont du Gard
From Avignon Car or regional bus about 3 hours on site morning or afternoon easy
The Pont du Gard is in the Gard department, west of Avignon. It is the three-tier bridge of a Roman aqueduct, probably from the first half of the 1st century, which carried water from a spring near Uzès to Nîmes, the ancient Nemausus, over a route of more than 50 km. It is the tallest known aqueduct-bridge of the Roman world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985. The bridge crosses the Gardon River. Beside it a road bridge was added in the 18th century, now pedestrian, from which the structure can be seen up close. The site has a museum about the aqueduct’s construction, trails through the Mediterranean vegetation on the banks, and viewpoints. In summer there is river swimming in the Gardon below the bridge.
Stops: Pont du Gard, Gardon, Vers-Pont-du-Gard, Remoulins.
Includes: There is an entrance fee that gives access to the site, the museum, and the visitor areas. Check the current price table.
Tip: Arrive in the morning to catch side light and fewer people. When swimming in the river, respect the marked areas; the Gardon’s water is cold.
Best time: All year. In spring and autumn the weather is mild; in summer, a swim in the river helps with the heat.
Luberon: Gordes, Abbaye de Sénanque and Roussillon
From Avignon Car (van tours also depart from Avignon) about 8 hours full day easy (short trail in Roussillon)
The Luberon is the region of hilltop villages east of Avignon, where having a car makes a difference. Gordes, listed among the Plus Beaux Villages de France, sits on a rock, with stone houses terraced around the castle; nearby are hundreds of bories, dry-stone huts. North of Gordes, in a narrow valley, is the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque, a Cistercian monastery founded in 1148 and still inhabited by monks. In front of the abbey there is a lavender field that usually blooms from mid-June to mid-July. Part of the monastery is open to visitors: church, cloister, dormitory and chapter house. Roussillon, further east, stands on ochre cliffs that colored the houses; the Sentier des Ocres is a short trail through the old quarries, between red and yellow walls. If you have time you can include Fontaine de Vaucluse, where the Sorgue River springs.
Stops: Gordes, Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque, Roussillon, Sentier des Ocres, Fontaine de Vaucluse.
Includes: Sénanque and the Sentier des Ocres require tickets; in the villages parking is paid. Van tours leave from Avignon at extra cost. Check the current schedule.
Tip: Sénanque is a place of religious life: dress modestly and keep silence; internal visits follow the community’s times and rules, confirm beforehand. In Roussillon, ochre stains clothing and shoes. It is forbidden to take ochre from the quarries.
Best time: From spring to autumn. Lavender usually blooms from mid-June to mid-July, depending on the year; check before you go.
Lavender route: Plateau de Valensole
From Aix‑en‑Provence Car via the A51 motorway about 7 hours full day easy
The Plateau de Valensole is in the Alpes‑de‑Haute‑Provence, northeast of Aix, between the Durance valley and the gorges du Verdon. It is a plateau of about 800 km² with an average altitude of 500 m, covered in fields of lavandin (a lavender hybrid), as well as wheat, almond trees, and truffles. At bloom time, roads cross purple rows that stretch to the horizon, and producers open distilleries and shops selling essential oil, soap, and lavender honey. The outing is by car, with stops at the edges of the fields and in the village of Valensole. Blooming typically occurs from mid‑June to mid‑July and varies each year; afterwards the harvest is mechanical and the fields are cut. Outside the bloom, the landscape is of green or harvested fields.
Stops: Plateau de Valensole, Valensole, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence.
Includes: The drive has no entrance fee. Distilleries and producer shops sell separately; van tours depart from Aix and Avignon in season, at an additional cost. Check the current price table.
Tip: Do not enter the fields or step on the rows: these are private plantations. Stop only on lay-bys and in permitted areas. Go early or late in the afternoon: in summer the plateau is very hot and there are afternoon thunderstorms.
Best time: From mid‑June to mid‑July, when the lavender usually blooms. The date changes each year: confirm before you go.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape: village, castle ruins and a winery visit
From Avignon Car or van tour about 4 hours morning or afternoon easy
Châteauneuf-du-Pape lies north of Avignon, between the Rhône and the vineyards. The Avignon popes had their summer residence there: Pope John XXII, in the 14th century, developed the vineyards. From the castle only the ruins of the keep on the hilltop remain, with views over the vineyards, the Rhône valley and Avignon. The vineyards sit on terraces covered with rolled quartzite pebbles brought by the river, which retain the sun’s heat. A visit to a producer’s cellar shows the vines, the winery and the production methods, and usually ends with a tasting. The village has stone streets, producer shops and a wine museum.
Stops: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Château des Papes (ruins), Vignoble de Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Includes: The climb to the ruins has no ticket. Winery visits and tours are paid separately; many require reservations. Check the current price list.
Tip: Book the winery visit in advance. If you are driving, do not drink: at tastings, ask to sip without swallowing or give the wheel to someone else; van tours avoid the issue.
Best time: From April to October. In September and October the grape harvest takes place and activity at the wineries increases.
Festival d'Avignon in July
From Avignon city center On foot between the performance venues 1 to 3 days afternoon and evening easy
The Festival d'Avignon, founded in 1947 by Jean Vilar, is France’s main theatre and performing arts festival and takes place every July. The original stage is the Cour d'honneur of the Palais des Papes, and the festival uses more than 30 venues across the city and region: cloisters, chapels, gardens, gymnasiums, quarries and churches. Alongside the official festival, the Festival Off brings together hundreds of companies in theatres and venues across the city. During the period, the streets inside the walls are covered with posters, artists promoting their shows and audiences late into the night. Most performances are in French; dance, music and circus work for visitors who do not speak the language.
Stops: Festival d'Avignon, Cour d'honneur du Palais des Papes, Festival Off d'Avignon.
Includes: Each performance requires a ticket; those for the official festival go on sale weeks in advance and sell out. Check the current schedule.
Tip: Buy tickets in advance and plan your trip early: the city fills up. For outdoor evening performances, bring a light warm layer and a seat cushion.
Best time: July. Dates change each edition: confirm before booking the trip.
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