Teatro Colón: guided tour
From Side entrance on Calle Tucumán, Centro Guided walking tour about 1 hour morning or afternoon easy
The Teatro Colón is Argentina’s main opera and ballet house, opened in 1908 after about 20 years of work and three architects: Francesco Tamburini, Vittorio Meano, and Jules Dormal. Guided tours run frequently throughout the day, in Spanish or English, and visit the public halls: the Salón de los Bustos, with statues of composers, and the Salón Dorado, decorated in gold, where the elite of the time used to gather. The end of the route is the main auditorium, horseshoe-shaped, with boxes on several levels and a painted dome; when there is a rehearsal, the tour may only cover part of it. If you want to see a performance you must buy a separate ticket for opera, ballet, or concert. The building stands between Avenida 9 de Julio and Plaza Lavalle, a few blocks from the Obelisk.
Stops: Teatro Colón, Salón Dorado, Salón de los Bustos, Avenida 9 de Julio.
Includes: Guided tour with admission paid separately, purchased at the box office or online. Shows have separate tickets. Check the current schedule.
Tip: Buy the tour in advance during the July and January holidays, when groups fill up. The guided tour entrance is on Calle Tucumán, not the main façade. Combine it with the Obelisk and Avenida Corrientes in the same outing.
Best time: All year. The tour closes on a few holidays, such as January 1, May 1, and December 24 and 25.
Avenida de Mayo: Café Tortoni, Palacio Barolo and Congreso
From Plaza de Mayo On foot about 3 hours afternoon easy
Avenida de Mayo links Plaza de Mayo with the Congreso de la Nación and features early 20th-century buildings with domes, balconies, and cafés. At number 825 is Café Tortoni, opened in 1858 and considered the oldest café in the city, with a facade from 1898. Jorge Luis Borges, Federico García Lorca, Julio Cortázar and Carlos Gardel sat at its tables. In the basement there are tango and jazz shows. Close by are the Academia Nacional del Tango and the Museo Mundial del Tango. Further on, the Palacio Barolo, inaugurated in 1923 and designed by the Italian Mario Palanti, is almost 100 meters tall and its design is inspired by Dante’s Divine Comedy: the guided visit goes up from hell, on the ground floor, to purgatory and heaven, with a view of the city from above. The avenue ends at Plaza del Congreso, in front of the Congress building. Along the way it crosses Avenida 9 de Julio, from where you can see the Obelisco.
Stops: Avenida de Mayo, Café Tortoni, Palacio Barolo, Plaza del Congreso, Congreso de la Nación, Obelisco, Avenida 9 de Julio.
Includes: Self‑guided walk. Palacio Barolo offers a paid guided tour (about one and a half hours); consumption at Tortoni is paid separately. Check the current schedule/prices.
Tip: Tortoni often has a line at the door during peak hours; go mid‑afternoon and order hot chocolate with churros. Book Palacio Barolo in advance, because groups are small.
Best time: All year round. It’s a good option for rainy or cold days, from May to September.
Tango shows and milongas
From Tango venues in San Telmo, Barracas, Puerto Madero, Centro and Palermo Dinner with show, show only, or milonga about 3 to 4 hours night easy
Tango was born in the port neighborhoods of Buenos Aires and the Río de la Plata is its homeland. There are two ways to experience it. A tango-house show is a performance with orchestra, singers and dancing couples; the most common package includes a fixed-menu dinner and drink before the performance, and some venues offer transfers. Well-known examples include Café de los Angelitos, near Congreso; El Querandí in San Telmo; Señor Tango in Barracas; and Madero Tango in Puerto Madero. The other option is the milonga, the dance where porteños really dance, without a stage: La Viruta and Salón Canning in Palermo are examples. Many milongas offer a beginner lesson before the dance. There the cabeceo code applies: the invitation to dance is made with a look.
Stops: Café de los Angelitos, El Querandí, Señor Tango, Madero Tango, Café Tortoni, La Viruta, Salón Canning.
Includes: At a show, generally: performance, dinner and drink according to the package; transfers vary. At a milonga, entrance and lesson are paid separately. Check the current schedule/fees.
Tip: Book the show a few days in advance and confirm whether round-trip transfer is included in the package, because the performance ends late at night. At a milonga, watch first and respect those who are dancing.
Best time: All year round. In August the city usually hosts its tango festival and world championship.
Paraná Delta in Tigre: boat, Puerto de Frutos and Tigre Art Museum
From Retiro station (Mitre train) or Downtown (tour) Train and boat on your own, or a guided tour about 7 hours full day easy
Tigre is about 35 km from the center, at the gateway to the Paraná Delta, a maze of rivers and channels with wooden houses, many with colorful docks, where transport is by boat. The Mitre line train departs Retiro and reaches Tigre station in about 50 minutes. Another option is to get off at Mitre station, transfer to the Tren de la Costa and follow the river through San Isidro to Delta station. In Tigre, sightseeing catamarans depart from the Estación Fluvial: the one-hour route goes along the Río Tigre and the Río Luján and enters the Río Sarmiento up to near the Museo Casa de Sarmiento, a wooden house protected by a glass structure; the two-hour tour continues through other rivers and channels. Along the way you pass collective launches that carry island residents, rowing boats and the Monumento al Remero. On the return, visit the Puerto de Frutos, an open-air market for crafts, wicker furniture, plants and food, and the Museo de Arte Tigre on the riverbank.
Stops: Tigre, Paraná Delta, Río Tigre, Río Luján, Río Sarmiento, Museo Casa de Sarmiento, Puerto de Frutos, Tigre Art Museum, Tren de la Costa, San Isidro.
Includes: On your own: train and catamaran tickets paid separately. On guided tours, generally: transport from the city, a guide and a boat ride. Check the current rates.
Tip: Use the SUBE card on the train. Compare boat tours along the riverfront before buying. On weekends Puerto de Frutos and the boats are busier; on a weekday the trip is calmer. Bring a coat in winter because it’s windy on the river.
Best time: All year. From October to April the weather favors being on the boat outdoors; from June to August it is cold on the river.
Round-trip boat day trip to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay
From Puerto Madero boat terminal Boat (ferry) on the Río de la Plata and walking about 10 hours, including the crossing full day easy
Colonia del Sacramento is in Uruguay, on the other side of the Río de la Plata. It was founded by the Portuguese in 1680 and the Barrio Histórico has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995. Fast boats depart from the Puerto Madero terminal and the crossing takes about 1 hour 15 minutes; Colonia’s port is roughly ten blocks from the historic center. The visit is done on foot: irregular cobblestone streets with colonial houses showing Portuguese and Spanish influences, the Portón de Campo, the former entrance to the walled town, and the Calle de los Suspiros, a cobbled street with low houses and flowers. The lighthouse, from 1857 and 26 meters high, can be climbed and shows the river and the town from above; on a clear day you can see the buildings of Buenos Aires. There are small museums, such as the Museo Portugués, the Museo Español and the Museo del Azulejo, and a rambla of about 6 km along the river. One day is enough to see the historic center.
Stops: Colonia del Sacramento, Barrio Histórico, Faro de Colonia del Sacramento, Calle de los Suspiros, Portón de Campo, Rambla de Colonia.
Includes: Round-trip boat ticket; port fees paid separately. The lighthouse and museums have separate admission fees. Check the current rates.
Tip: This is an international trip: bring the same document you used to enter Argentina, either your RG or a valid passport. There is immigration control when leaving Argentina and when entering Uruguay, carried out at the port before boarding; arrive early. Buy your ticket allowing some buffer days around public holidays. Uruguay’s time zone is the same as Buenos Aires.
Best time: September to April, when days are longer. From June to August the wind on the river makes the walk cold.
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
From Recoleta, Avenida del Libertador On foot, independently or with a guided tour about 2 hours morning or afternoon easy
The Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes was inaugurated in 1896 and has occupied the Avenida del Libertador building since 1933, renovated by architect Alejandro Bustillo. It houses the largest collection of Argentine art in the country, including works by Cándido López, Fader, Quinquela Martín, Xul Solar, Berni, Pettoruti and Marta Minujín, among others. The international wing includes works by El Greco, Goya, Rembrandt, Rubens, Rodin, Manet, Monet, Renoir, Degas, Cézanne, Gauguin, Van Gogh, Chagall and Picasso. There is also Latin American art, photography, pre-Columbian Andean art and two sculpture terraces. It is a few minutes on foot from the Cementerio de la Recoleta and the Floralis Genérica.
Stops: Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, Avenida del Libertador, Recoleta.
Includes: Admission by voluntary contribution (bono contribución). Check current conditions.
Tip: The museum is closed on Mondays. Go after visiting the Cementerio de la Recoleta, a few blocks away. Guided tours in Spanish are offered on some days of the week.
Best time: Open year-round. A good refuge on rainy days or during very hot weather, from December to February.
Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood: shops, cafés and bars
From Plaza Serrano (Plazoleta Julio Cortázar), Palermo On foot about 4 hours afternoon and evening easy
Palermo is the largest neighborhood in the city and contains informal sub-neighborhoods. Palermo Soho, around Plaza Serrano, has tree-lined streets with low houses that became clothing shops for local brands, studios, bookstores and cafés. On the other side of the train tracks is Palermo Hollywood, with restaurants and bars. It’s the part of the city for good eating, from traditional parrillas to cuisines from many countries. The afternoon is for shopping; at night the bars around Plaza Serrano get crowded. Porteños dine late, and many restaurants only fill up after nine p.m.
Stops: Palermo Soho, Palermo Hollywood, Plaza Serrano, Honduras Street, Thames Street.
Includes: Self-guided walk. Food and other charges paid separately.
Tip: Book well-known parrillas and restaurants one or two days in advance, especially Thursday through Saturday. On weekends there are design fairs at Plaza Serrano. Use the Subte, line D, to get there and back.
Best time: All year. From October to April the sidewalk tables fill up at night.
El Ateneo Grand Splendid and Avenida Santa Fe
From Avenida Santa Fe, between Recoleta and Barrio Norte On foot about 1 hour afternoon easy
El Ateneo Grand Splendid is a bookstore housed in a former cinema-theater opened in 1919, designed by architects Rafael Peró and Manuel Torres Armengo. The building operated as a theater and cinema and became a bookstore in 2000. The boxes were turned into small reading rooms, the stalls are filled with bookshelves and the former stage, still with the velvet curtain, houses a café. On the ceiling, the 20-meter-diameter dome was painted by the Italian Nazareno Orlandi in 1919, with an allegory of peace. Avenida Santa Fe, where the bookstore is located, is one of the city's main commercial avenues.
Stops: El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Avenida Santa Fe, Recoleta.
Includes: Open to the public. Purchases at the café are paid separately.
Tip: Go up to the upper floors to see the whole auditorium from above. Visit on a weekday in the morning or early afternoon, when there are fewer people. Fit it into the same day as Recoleta, which is nearby.
Best time: All year round.