SP · MG · RJ · Brazil
Illustrative images. The pictures in this guide are illustrations based on the real place, not photographs, and may differ from it.
Get to know the place
This mountain range stitches together São Paulo, Minas Gerais and Rio de Janeiro and has some of the coldest winters in Southeast Brazil, with araucaria pines, frost and Alpine-style villages. A single trip can take in the buzz of Campos do Jordão, the quiet pousadas (guesthouses) of Visconde de Mauá and the high mountains of the Parque Nacional do Itatiaia. It is a place to drive slowly on winding roads, stop at craft breweries and end the night in a thick sweater in front of the fireplace.
This destination brings together 7 cities: Campos do Jordão, São Bento do Sapucaí, Camanducaia, Itamonte, Itatiaia, Resende, São Lourenço.
A look at the place
These pictures are illustrations based on the real place, not photographs. They may differ from the place.
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One destination, many paths
Start with one city or combine several in your itinerary.
Campos do Jordão brings together forest and European-inspired architecture in the São Paulo part of the Mantiqueira. A visit can alternate outdoor walks with art, music and food.
São Bento do Sapucaí has rural landscapes dominated by the Pedra do Baú rock formations. A trip here combines hiking, climbing and contact with local Mantiqueira produce and crafts.
Camanducaia is in the Serra da Mantiqueira and is home to the district of Monte Verde. Walks around the town center and the mountain areas let you combine small-town life, hiking and good food.
Itamonte is in the Minas Gerais part of the Mantiqueira, among rural areas and the mountains around Itatiaia. It is a base for exploring mountain roads and nature outings.
Itatiaia brings together forest and high-altitude grasslands in southern Rio de Janeiro state. The national park offers a range of outings, from waterfall areas to mountain trails.
Resende stretches from the Paraíba valley to the Mantiqueira mountains. You can combine a walk through the historic center with experiences in the town's rural and mountain areas.
São Lourenço is part of Minas Gerais' Circuito das Águas and has a tourism-oriented town center. Visits to the park and railway experiences help you get a feel for the town's pace.
The local experience
A free fall of almost 100 meters in the rural area of Fragária, about 33 km from downtown and 1,350 meters above sea level. You can see it from a roadside viewpoint or up close, via a short, steep trail down to the pool.
Discover Cachoeira da Fragária
A mountain village about 1,550 meters above sea level, founded in 1950 by Latvian immigrant Verner Grinberg; the name translates the family surname. It has European-style houses, a cold climate and trails to rocks and viewpoints.
Discover Distrito de Monte Verde
It has nine mineral water springs, a lake with pedal boats and the Ilha dos Amores (island), created in the 1930s. It is also home to the 1935 Art Deco bathhouse, with hydrotherapy services.
A gneiss formation in the Serra da Mantiqueira at about 1,950 meters above sea level, protected by the Monumento Natural Estadual da Pedra do Baú. The climb to the top is by a via ferrata with hundreds of iron rungs set into the vertical rock.
A central neighborhood with Alpine-inspired architecture packed with chocolate shops, restaurants, stores and the town's nightlife. In winter the streets fill with people in coats and the smell of fondue and mulled wine.
A mountain village on the banks of the Rio Preto (river), on the border with Minas Gerais, which grew from a colonial settlement created in 1908 and occupied by German and Austrian families. The area brings together valleys, trails and dozens of waterfalls in the Serra da Mantiqueira.
At about 1,760 meters above sea level, it is the most accessible formation in the complex, reached by a short, easy trail. From the top you get a head-on view of the Pedra do Baú and the valley.
Construction began in 1812 on today's Praça Doutor Oliveira Botelho, in the historic center. A fire destroyed the interior in 1945, and the church was rebuilt and consecrated again in 1954.
Discover Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Conceição
A hill at about 1,800 meters above sea level with a panoramic viewpoint over the town and the mountains, reached by car or by the chairlift from Vila Capivari. The local chairlift was the first in Brazil, opened in 1970.
Discover Morro do Elefante e Teleférico
A protected area in the Serra da Mantiqueira with peaks over 2,000 meters, such as Papagaio and Santo Agostinho. It protects araucaria forests, valleys and waterfalls, explored on guided trails.
Discover Parque Estadual da Serra do Papagaio
A trail of less than 1 km, with stairs and handrails, leading to a flat summit at about 1,950 meters above sea level, with a 360-degree view. There is a wooden deck halfway up, and dogs on a leash are allowed.
Built in Greek style by the Sociedade Brasileira de Eubiose and opened in 1949, it stands on top of a hill. It welcomes visitors and has a museum with objects and symbols linked to the organization.
A rock formation shaped like a bishop's miter, reached by a short trail. The final climb up the rock is technical and only done with a qualified guide and safety equipment.
An araucaria reserve with trails, waterfalls, lakes and adventure activities, very popular for easy family walks. You can also see native wildlife, such as monkeys and birds.
Discover Parque Estadual de Campos do Jordão (Horto Florestal)
The third formation in the Pedra do Baú complex, it is reached by a trail of about 4 km with stretches of ladder rungs fixed into the rock. From the top you see the Pedra do Baú from the opposite angle to Bauzinho, with the Serra da Mantiqueira all around.
A settlement founded in 1929 by Finnish immigrants led by Toivo Uuskallio, it is the main Finnish colony in the country. Nordic-style houses, the Clube Finlândia, founded in 1943, and the Finnish museum preserve this heritage.
Opened in 1905 over the Rio Paraíba do Sul, it has a metal structure prefabricated in Belgium and brought by ship. Known as the Ponte Velha, it is one of the landmarks of downtown's historic heritage.
Discover Ponte Nilo Peçanha (Ponte Velha)
A steam train ride run by the Brazilian Railway Preservation Association on a stretch of about 10 km of the old railway to Soledade de Minas. It leaves from the local station, officially opened in 1925.
In the lower part of the Parque Nacional do Itatiaia, the waterfall runs down a rock wall in the middle of the Atlantic Forest. Access is by a short, easy trail from the park's internal road, a few kilometers from the visitor center.
Discover Cachoeira Véu de Noiva
Built in rammed earth around 1853, it gained its central tower in 1906 and the side towers in 1916, and was listed by Condephaat (São Paulo's state heritage agency) in 2015. It stands at the top of the main square in the historic center, surrounded by old houses.
Discover Igreja Matriz de São Bento
A Neo-Colonial church, blending Baroque and Neoclassical elements, with three naves. The interior has European stained glass and Neoclassical religious statues.
Discover Igreja Matriz de São Lourenço
An open-air museum with 88 works by Polish-born artist Felícia Leirner spread across a lawn overlooking the mountains. Next door is the Auditório Cláudio Santoro, home of the winter festival.
Discover Museu Felícia Leirner
An intermediate-level route of about 1.25 km that climbs to a plateau at roughly 1,950 meters above sea level. From the top you can see the Paraíba Valley, and the Trilha do Pôr do Sol also starts there.
It is on private property in the Paiol Grande area, on the Bauzinho road, with an entrance fee and an easy trail suitable for families. From there you can follow the trail up to Bauzinho, passing other waterfalls and viewpoints.
A natural pool formed by the Rio Campo Belo (river) in the lower part of the Parque Nacional do Itatiaia, about 500 meters from the visitor center. The clear water over rounded rocks draws families for a swim, and there is an alternative, easier access path.
A viewpoint more than 2,000 meters above sea level with an open view of the Paraíba Valley and, on clear days, the Serra do Mar.
A low, wide waterfall in Visconde de Mauá whose sloping rock slab works as a natural slide, with easy access from the road. It is very popular and surrounded by rustic bars and restaurants.
Discover Cachoeira do Escorrega
One of the highest points in Brazil, in the upper section of the Parque Nacional do Itatiaia, the country's first national park, created in 1937. Reaching the summit requires stretches of rock scrambling and rewards you with a 360-degree view.
Discover Pico das Agulhas Negras
A group of granite slabs stacked like shelves in the upper part of the Parque Nacional do Itatiaia, with a trail of moderate difficulty. The landscape of high-altitude grasslands and rocks is unlike anything else in Southeast Brazil.
Your base to explore
Where you stay is part of the trip. Choose the area that best fits your itinerary.
A hotel opened in 1944 as a hotel-casino and reopened in 1998 as a teaching hotel of Senac São Paulo, which runs hospitality and culinary courses in the building. It suits guests wanting a full-service stay in restored original architecture.
A hotel on Alameda João Lage, a few steps from the Parque das Águas, with its own alkaline-bicarbonate mineral water spring. It has heated pools, a kids' area and a restaurant serving Minas Gerais cuisine, and welcomes families, groups and pets.
A hotel with more than 80 years of history at km 9.5 of the Parque Nacional do Itatiaia road, with chalets with fireplaces. It suits birdwatchers and anyone who wants direct access to the park's trails and waterfalls.
A pousada (guesthouse) with 40 rooms on 170,000 square meters of green space, with a view of the Pedra do Baú, a pool and its own restaurant. It welcomes couples, families and events.
A pousada (guesthouse) with seven wooden chalets in araucaria forest, some with fireplaces and bathtubs, next to a waterfall with a natural pool. It has a sauna and shared kitchen and hosts yoga and meditation retreats.
A pousada (guesthouse) opened in 2004 in Visconde de Mauá, with 15 chalets designed by architect Carlos Jorge Hamers and its own restaurant. Geared toward couples seeking rest, with a sauna, heated pool and fireplaces.
A hotel with 23 suites on more than 60,000 square meters, designed by João Armentano and a member of the Roteiros de Charme association. It has a lake, its own trail, courts and a spa, and suits guests who want leisure without leaving the property.
A group of seven chalets with fireplaces and kitchens, about 500 meters from the Pedra do Baú trail access, with a home-style breakfast. It suits families and those visiting town for hiking, climbing and waterfalls.
A hotel in operation for almost a century, next to the Parque das Águas woods, with a climate-controlled pool, sauna and a restaurant serving pizzas and traditional dishes. It caters to families and couples and accepts pets.
A hotel opened in 1943 in Swiss Alpine style, with eleven murals by Fúlvio Pennacchi painted the year it opened. It is geared toward multigenerational families seeking a stay surrounded by forest, away from the bustle of Capivari.
A hotel geared toward couples, with 17 units called moradas (dwellings) in a forested area at 1,750 meters above sea level, in Jardim das Montanhas. It has a spa, pool and wine bar, for those planning a trip for two.
A pousada (guesthouse) along the BR-354, in the Terras Altas da Mantiqueira area of Itamonte, with a pool, sauna and river access for swimming. It serves home-style food and appeals to families seeking peace and quiet in the mountains.
A pousada (guesthouse) at km 10 of the RJ-151, in Visconde de Mauá, with suites, chalets and studios, a restaurant with a wine cellar and a spring-water pool. It caters to couples and those interested in trails, birdwatching and wine.
A health and wellness center with lodging on 155,000 square meters of Atlantic Forest in Penedo, with a multidisciplinary medical team. It welcomes adults on immersion programs of four to seven nights.
A hotel 50 meters from the Parque das Águas, in downtown São Lourenço, with thermal and heated pools with water slides. It has a restaurant, café, two bars and a kids' area, and caters to families and events.
An apartment hotel with 48 units in downtown Resende, with a pool, sauna, restaurant and event spaces. It suits business travelers and longer stays in town, near AMAN (Brazil's army officer academy) and on the way to Penedo and the Parque Nacional do Itatiaia.
A small pousada (guesthouse) in the Ribeirão do Ouro area, along the BR-354, in Itamonte, with a pool, bar and breakfast. Guests highlight the mountain view and the owners' hospitality; it is good for couples.
A pousada (guesthouse) with ten chalets and three suites in Alto da Maromba, in an area of native forest with a river, waterfalls and natural pools. It suits couples and small groups, with its own restaurant and a full-board option.
A pousada (guesthouse) with European-influenced architecture in the Vila Capivari area, with a heated indoor pool, sauna and kids' area. It caters to couples and families, with suite categories that include hot tubs and balconies.
A pousada (guesthouse) opened in 2012 about 500 meters from Monte Verde's shopping area, now with two properties and the Alameda Suíça restaurant. It has more than 30 rooms and suits guests who want to stay close to the village shops.
Lodging with five rustic chalets in the Paiol Grande area, 1.5 km from the Pedra do Baú, with a breakfast of regional products and a common area with a fire pit. It caters to couples and small groups and accepts pets.
Champet Boutique Hotel is a few minutes from the center of Vila Capivari, in Campos do Jordão. It has a heated indoor pool; dry and steam saunas; gym; spa; bistro; pool bar; shuttle to Vila Capivari.
Pousada Campos de Provence is four blocks from the tourist square in Capivari, in Campos do Jordão. It offers breakfast from 8 a.m. to noon; 24-hour front desk.
Chalés Lago do Baú is in São Bento do Sapucaí. It offers breakfast.
Chalés Montanha is near downtown, with a panoramic view of the town and the Pedra do Baú, in São Bento do Sapucaí. It has private parking; pool; sauna; barbecue grill; game room; breakfast room.
Pousada Maple Monte Verde is in the Monte Verde area of Camanducaia. Fireplace and balcony in selected categories; hot tub in the Master Superior LogHome; heating in the Premium LogHome.
Pousada Recanto Monte Verde is in the Monte Verde area of Camanducaia. It has a fireplace; full kitchen; minibar; Wi-Fi; parking in front of the chalets; optional breakfast, not included.
Pousada das Pedras is at the top of the mountain, a four-minute drive from the main avenue, with paved access, in Camanducaia. It offers breakfast; Wi-Fi; outdoor parking; outdoor pool; chalets with fireplace and hot tub.
Hotel Fazenda Floresta Negra is in the Monte Verde area of Camanducaia. It offers an all-inclusive plan; parking; little train rides; horses and ATVs for rent.
Hotel Thomaz is near the Parque Nacional do Itatiaia and Pico das Agulhas Negras, in Itamonte. It offers breakfast; Wi-Fi; lounge with fireplace; minibar; TV; enclosed parking.
Hotel São Gotardo is near the Parque Nacional do Itatiaia, in Itamonte. It offers full board; heated pool; sauna; massages.
Hotel Terras da Finlândia is in the dining hub of Penedo, in Itatiaia. It has a pool; sauna; gym.
Hotel Vivenda Penedo is on the bank of the Rio das Pedras, in landscaped grounds, in Itatiaia. It offers breakfast; heated indoor pool; dry sauna; gym; massage; rooms with fireplaces.
Terra Verde Mauá is in the Visconde de Mauá area of Resende.
Scala Residence Hotel is in the commercial and financial center of Resende, near AMAN. It offers breakfast; pool; Wi-Fi; air conditioning; minibar in the Deluxe category.
Pousada Al Chaddai is in São Lourenço. It offers breakfast; kids' pool; air conditioning; Wi-Fi; limited parking; barbecue grill; game room; no pets.
Flavors of the destination
A restaurant on Avenida das Mangueiras, in Penedo, that combines German and Brazilian cuisine and brews its own beer. It has a children's area and indoor and outdoor dining rooms, and caters to families.
A restaurant at km 10 of the road from Itamonte to Alagoa, with Minas Gerais cooking, contemporary dishes such as risottos and house-made ice cream. It serves beers from southern Minas Gerais breweries and caters to families, couples and groups.
A Swiss restaurant opened in 1997 on Rua Rolinha, specializing in cheese, meat and poultry fondues, plus sweet versions. It suits those who come to Monte Verde for fondue on cold mountain nights.
A draft-beer hall on Rua Djalma Forjaz, in Vila Capivari, linked to the Baden Baden brewery, a brand born in Campos do Jordão. It serves German food, such as eisbein and sauerkraut, with the house draft and bottled beers.
The restaurant of the Pousada Terras Altas, also open to the public by reservation, using ingredients from its own vegetable garden and from producers in the neighboring villages. It suits those looking for handcrafted cooking centered on Mantiqueira products.
A restaurant on the Rodovia Benedito Gomes de Souza, in the Paiol Grande area, known for its flambéed trout. It has an à la carte menu with meat, poultry, fish and pizzas.
A restaurant on Avenida Dom Pedro II serving freshly made Minas Gerais food since 1991, with daily specials and à la carte dishes. It caters to families who want a home-style meal while touring the Circuito das Águas.
A pizzeria opened in 1989 on Avenida Comendador Costa, with wood-fired pizzas made in the classic Italian tradition. The menu also includes risottos, pasta, meat, fish and Italian wines.
A restaurant opened in 1998 on Rua das Velas, in Penedo, devoted to southern Brazilian gaúcho-style barbecue, with cuts such as dry-aged picanha (top sirloin cap). The menu also includes fondues and risottos, and it caters to couples, families and groups.
A restaurant serving comfort food with fine-dining technique on the Itamonte–Alagoa road, with outdoor tables facing the forest and a waterfall. It serves dishes such as chicken with okra and breaded trout.
A restaurant on a 35-hectare rural property that grows berries, grapes and seedlings, with an approach tied to the Slow Food movement. The seasonal menu makes use of the farm's produce, at 1,600 meters above sea level.
A restaurant serving contemporary and international cuisine on Avenida Presidente Wenceslau Bráz, in Vila de Mauá, on the Resende side. It has a cozy atmosphere and is a good choice for a more special dinner.
A German restaurant that has made its own artisan sausages since 1997, using Stuttgart-style recipes. It is on Avenida Pedro Paulo, on the way to the Horto Florestal, and eisbein (pork knuckle) is among the house dishes.
A contemporary Italian bistro on Rua Rolinha, with handmade pasta and seasonal ingredients, such as smoked salmon produced in the region. It does not take reservations and suits anyone looking for a casual meal in the village center.
A café and deli at the start of the Visconde de Mauá–Maringá road, serving breakfast, brunch, lunch and artisan breads. It also sells cheeses and regional products and is a good stop as you move between the villages.
A casual bar opened in 2010 on Avenida da Fazenda, known for its crispy-skin roast suckling pig and other Minas Gerais dishes. It suits anyone wanting regional food in a laid-back setting.
A restaurant opened in 1999 on Rua Aristides de Souza Mello, with a concept inspired by King Ludwig II of Bavaria and a member of the Associação dos Restaurantes da Boa Lembrança (a Brazilian restaurant association). The menu features fondues, pasta, risottos and meats.
A restaurant opened in 1985 on Avenida das Mangueiras, in Penedo, the first in the region to specialize in trout; the most popular dish is trout in almond sauce. The menu also has other fish and beef and chicken options.
A restaurant next to the main Pedra do Baú trailhead, about 9 km from downtown, with Italian cooking with regional touches and live music. It suits hikers coming down from the trail who want lunch with a mountain view.
A gastropub across from the Parque das Águas, on Avenida Comendador Costa, with contemporary cuisine and weekly specials. The list has more than 60 wines, signature cocktails and specialty coffees from the region.
A trout farm with a restaurant in the Sobradinho area, along the BR-354, in Itamonte, serving fish raised right there. It also sells packaged fillets and is a stop for travelers crossing the mountains.
Before you go
A little planning leaves more time to enjoy the journey.
Campos do Jordão is about three hours from São Paulo via the Rodovia Carvalho Pinto and SP-123; the Rio de Janeiro side, such as Itatiaia and Visconde de Mauá, is reached via the Via Dutra (BR-116), between Rio and São Paulo.
From June to August, when real cold, frost and the winter festivals arrive, although spring is better for the high-altitude trails.
Take your trash with you, follow the signs and support local businesses. In natural areas, follow the visiting guidelines.
