Church · Tessalônica, Macedônia Central
Igreja de Panagia Chalkeon
The red church of the coppersmiths, from 1028, built entirely of brick, with three domes and Byzantine frescoes, in a depressed square near the Ágora Romana. UNESCO World Heritage site.
Illustrative images. The pictures in this guide are illustrations based on the real place, not photographs, and may differ from it.
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About Igreja de Panagia Chalkeon
Panagia Chalkeon (Our Lady of the Coppersmiths) was founded in 1028 by Christophoros, the Byzantine governor of Longobardia, according to the inscription above the west door. The name comes from the coppersmiths who worked in the neighborhood, a tradition still visible in the kitchenware shops on the street in front. Locals call it the Red Church because it is built entirely of brick.
The plan is a cross-in-square with three domes—one central and two over the narthex—featuring arches, pilasters and niches on the exterior that show Constantinople's influence. Inside, 11th-century frescoes have survived, such as the Ascension in the dome, the Virgin in prayer in the apse and a Last Judgment in the narthex, as well as 14th-century paintings on the west wall. The Last Supper in the apse is one of the earliest examples of this scene in a Byzantine sanctuary.
With the Ottoman conquest it became a mosque, and it returned to Christian worship in 1912. Today it is an active Orthodox church, included in 1988 among the fifteen Paleochristian and Byzantine monuments of Tessalônica inscribed by UNESCO.
It stands in a square lower than the street level, showing how much the city's level has risen in a thousand years, a few meters from the Ágora Romana and the Bey Hamam, the Ottoman bath of 1444.
Before you go
Practical information
Cidade Turismo reviews its information regularly, but something may have changed. Check with the place before planning your trip.
How much time to set aside
20 to 40 minutes.
Best time
In the morning, outside service times, when the church is usually open and empty. The frescoes are dark: allow your eyes to adjust.
How to get there
At praça Dikastirion, by avenida Egnatia and the Ágora Romana, about a 5-minute walk from praça Aristotelous.
Tip
Combine with the Ágora Romana next door, and with the Bey Hamam, the Ottoman bath on the other side of the Egnatia, which opens for exhibitions. Dress modestly and keep quiet: the church is in use.
Get your questions answered
Frequently asked questions about Igreja de Panagia Chalkeon
Why is the church below street level?
Because it was built in 1028 and the city's level rose over the centuries from rubble and reconstructions. The sunken square shows the original ground.
Is Panagia Chalkeon open to the public?
Yes, as a functioning Orthodox church, outside service times. There is no charge.
What to see inside?
The 11th-century frescoes: the Ascension in the dome, the Virgin in the apse, the Last Supper and the Last Judgment in the narthex.
