RJ · Brazil
Serra do Mar, islands and colonial Paraty, between Rio and São Paulo.
Illustrative images. The pictures in this guide are illustrations based on the real place, not photographs, and may differ from it.
Get to know the place
This is the stretch of the Rio de Janeiro coast where the Serra do Mar (mountain range) drops down to the water, leaving behind hundreds of islands, emerald-green coves and caiçara (traditional coastal) villages that can only be reached by boat. You spend the morning sailing among natural pools in Angra dos Reis and end the day on the uneven stones of Paraty's historic center, among white mansions and colorful doors.
Angra dos Reis has more than 300 islands, and the largest, Ilha Grande, is a world of its own: no private cars, with Vila do Abraão as its gateway, trails through the Atlantic Forest and beaches such as Lopes Mendes and Lagoa Azul. Paraty brings together listed colonial houses, cachaça distilleries, waterfalls in the mountains and the village of Trindade, with natural pools among the rocks. Saco do Mamanguá, known as the tropical fjord, is a boat trip from Paraty.
On the way between Rio de Janeiro and Angra, Mangaratiba and Itacuruçá open access to the islands of the Baía de Sepetiba, and Rio Claro, in the mountains, holds the ruins of São João Marcos. It's a trip of sea, forest and history, done by boat, on foot and along the Rio-Santos, one of the most beautiful roads in the country.
This destination brings together 5 cities: Angra dos Reis, Paraty, Mangaratiba, Itaguaí, Rio Claro.
A look at the place
These pictures are illustrations based on the real place, not photographs. They may differ from the place.
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One destination, many paths
Start with one city or combine several in your itinerary.
Angra dos Reis spreads out between the jagged coastline and the islands of the Costa Verde. Boat trips let you explore beaches and coves, while downtown holds buildings tied to the town's history.
Paraty combines a historic center of stone streets with scenery between the Serra da Bocaina and the sea. Your trip can alternate walks through town with boat trips around the bay.
Mangaratiba brings together small coastal settlements between the sea and the slopes of the Serra do Mar. You can explore its history downtown and then head to the beaches or take a boat to the nearby islands.
Itaguaí connects the Baía de Sepetiba to the rural and mountain areas of the Atlantic Forest. You can explore the heritage downtown and the coast or the paths of the Vale do Mazomba (valley).
Rio Claro occupies a region of mountains, rivers and rural landscapes in inland Rio de Janeiro state. Outings around the municipality bring you close to nature and to the memory of the old town of São João Marcos.
The local experience
Built between 1718 and 1729 as part of a Jesuit settlement, it's at the origin of the old town. The complex, on raised ground, is listed by the state heritage agency Inepac, including wooden statues of São Francisco Xavier and Nossa Senhora do Pilar.
Discover Igreja Matriz de São Francisco Xavier
It preserves the ruins of the old town of São João Marcos, demolished in the 1940s to expand a reservoir, and is considered the country's first urban archaeological site. It has a Caminho Imperial (Imperial Road) trail and a memory center.
Discover Parque Arqueológico e Ambiental de São João Marcos
A strip of firm white sand almost three kilometers long on Ilha Grande, with no buildings or kiosks, reached by a forest trail or by boat to Pouso. It's considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Brazil and has good surfing waves.
Discover Praia de Lopes Mendes
Located in the Baía de Sepetiba, across from the district of Itacuruçá, it's the destination of the schooner and saveiro trips leaving from the pier. It has several calm-water beaches linked by trails, including Praia Grande and Praia Brava.
A shallow natural pool sheltered by islets in the north of Ilha Grande, with Caribbean-colored water so clear you can see the bottom from the boat. It's the must-stop on schooner trips around the bay.
A mountain district named in 1944 in honor of the Czech village destroyed by the Nazis during World War II. A Phoenix statue symbolizes rebirth, and the surroundings have dozens of waterfalls and pools.
A former island now linked to the mainland, it has a small strip of sand with coconut palms and calm, greenish water on the Baía de Sepetiba. Fishing boats at anchor complete the scene, especially at sunset.
Discover Praia da Ilha da Madeira
Located about 5 kilometers from Lídice, it's easy to reach and has a lawn on the riverbank. It's one of the most popular waterfalls with families in the region.
Discover Cachoeira Sebastião Marinho
An island covered in preserved Atlantic Forest, reached by boat from Itacuruçá. Praia do Araçá, with about 250 meters of light sand and clear water, is the most popular, and the rocky coast is home to a small fishing community.
A 982-meter summit on Ilha Grande reached by a demanding trail of about 12 kilometers, often hiked before dawn to see the sunrise. From the top you see the whole bay dotted with islands.
One of the most developed beaches on the Baía de Sepetiba, it has a narrow strip of light sand and calm water. It draws many visitors in summer and offers views of the nearby islands.
Discover Praia de Coroa Grande
An 18th- and 19th-century colonial ensemble with pé-de-moleque (rough stone) streets laid out in a grid, whitewashed houses and doors and windows painted in bold colors, recognized by UNESCO. At full-moon high tides the water floods the streets and reflects the facades.
Discover Centro Histórico de Paraty
Built between the late 18th and early 19th centuries by enslaved labor, it houses the statue of the municipality's patron saint. It's on Praça Fagundes Varela, downtown.
Discover Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Piedade
Built in 1795 on the site of an earlier chapel dedicated to the patron saint, it has a facade covered in Portuguese tiles. It was listed by Iphan in 1967, and the altar holds the original Baroque-style wooden statue of Nossa Senhora da Guia.
Discover Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Guia
Ilha Grande's main village, it receives boats from the mainland and has most of the services on the island, where private cars don't circulate. Trails and boat trips leave from there to beaches, coves and waterfalls.
It's in the district of Muriqui, inside the Parque Estadual Cunhambebe, and is reached by short trails. The lower part has a drop with a natural rock slide, and the upper part has natural pools with forest views.
Discover Cachoeira Véu da Noiva (Muriqui)
An 18th-century church with a white facade and stone details, one of the most photographed buildings in Paraty because it faces the pier. It houses a collection of the region's sacred art.
Close to the mainland, it's one of the most visited islands on the bay's boat trips. Its coves of calm, greenish water, such as Praia de Jurubaíba, known as Praia do Dentista, usually draw boats at anchor.
A caiçara village at the far south of the Rio de Janeiro coast, surrounded by the Serra da Bocaina and beaches such as Meio, Fora and Cachadaço. A short trail leads to the Cachadaço natural pool, formed by large rocks by the sea.
A smooth, sloping rock slab where the river forms a natural slide ending in the Poço do Tarzan (pool), on the Estrada Real route. It's surrounded by dense forest and artisanal distilleries.
A long, narrow arm of the sea between two mountain ranges, considered Brazil's only tropical fjord, with mangroves, caiçara communities and calm water. The climb up Pico do Pão de Açúcar do Mamanguá offers the widest view of the inlet.
A beach with calm water and light sand near downtown Mangaratiba, one of the most popular with families since it has no strong waves. It works well as a base for trips to the islands of Itacuruçá and Jaguanum.
Your base to explore
Where you stay is part of the trip. Choose the area that best fits your itinerary.
A beachfront pousada in Angra dos Reis (Rio de Janeiro). Seafront pool, beachside restaurant and 4 room categories.
An all-inclusive Club Med resort between the Atlantic Forest and a fine-sand beach, with less than 20% of its area built up. It caters to families, with kids' clubs by age group, water sports and Green Globe certification.
A Fasano group hotel opened in 2017 in the Frade gated community, with 60 rooms, a spa, an 18-hole golf course and access to Praia do Frade. It suits those seeking upscale lodging with full leisure facilities on the mainland.
A pousada with chalets on the Francisco Saturnino Braga highway, in Lídice, a mountain district of Rio Claro, surrounded by Atlantic Forest, with a pool, a lake and a soccer field. It suits those looking for peace and ecotourism between the mountains and Angra dos Reis.
A pousada on Rua Dr. Pereira, formerly Rua da Praia, made up of a main mansion and an annex, with tropical gardens, a pool and colonial decor. It suits those who want to explore Paraty's Historic Center on foot.
A 200-room chain hotel by the Rio-Santos highway, with a gym, business center and event rooms. Geared mainly to business travel, with breakfast included and meeting facilities.
A nine-room boutique hotel on Rua Doutor Pereira, with stone walls, hardwood and turquoise details that give the house its name. It doesn't accept children under 12 and caters to couples looking for a quiet stay in the Historic Center.
A resort on a 1-km beach on the Rio-Santos highway, covering 300,000 m² and with a safari of about 500 animals, many of them rescued. It caters to families interested in beach, nature and guided tours focused on conservation.
A 154-room hotel on Rua Deputado Otávio Cabral, across from the bus station, with a pool, gym and meeting rooms. It suits business travelers heading to the industrial hubs and those needing lodging near downtown.
An all-inclusive resort with 321 rooms, set on the former Fazenda Tanguá (farm), whose colonial buildings were preserved. It caters to families, with a kids' club, spa and sports activities about ten minutes from downtown.
An eight-suite pousada on Rua da Praia, at the end of Praia do Abraão, with a tropical garden and a boat dock. It suits those who want to stay right on the sand in Ilha Grande's main village, close to the boat pier.
A pousada on Rua do Comércio, in the Historic Center, with rooms of various sizes, works by artists throughout and the Quintal das Letras restaurant. It has GSTC sustainable tourism certification and a villa in Saco do Mamanguá for secluded stays.
A pousada in the Brasilinha neighborhood, in Itacuruçá, a district of Mangaratiba, a short distance from the beach. A family-style house with a pool and shared kitchen that accepts pets and serves families and groups looking for simple lodging on the Costa Verde.
A pousada in Vila Geny, in Itaguaí, a few minutes from the Coroa Grande waterfront, with air-conditioned rooms and breakfast. It suits business travelers or those who want a simple base near the sea.
A hotel in downtown Itaguaí, near the port, with a restaurant, gym, parking and a 24-hour minimarket. It has accessible rooms.
A hotel in downtown Angra dos Reis, three minutes from the pier where boats leave for Ilha Grande. It has single to quadruple rooms and suits those who want to sleep near the boarding point.
A pousada at Praia de Itacuruçá, in Mangaratiba, with rooms and suites, a lounge terrace and a 24-hour front desk. A good base for boat trips around the islands in the bay.
A hotel on Largo do Rosário, in Paraty's Historic Center, with a spa, gym, restaurants and bar. It suits those who want to stay inside the old center, within walking distance of the churches and the pier.
A hotel at the Itacuruçá Marina, in Mangaratiba, with suites whose balconies face the sea or the mountains. It has pools, saunas, a restaurant and a multi-sport court.
A beachfront pousada two kilometers from downtown, next to the Colégio Naval (naval school), with a pool, sauna and kayaks. It has suites, flats with kitchenettes and a house for groups of up to ten people.
A 43-unit pousada in the heart of Paraty's Historic Center, with a pool, sauna, garden and pool bar. It has double and triple rooms and family suites.
A pousada one block from Praia do Jabaquara, in Paraty, with pools, a playground and chalets for groups of up to nine people. It's well suited to families, with a soccer field and a game room.
An 18-room pousada in Vila do Abraão, about 100 meters from the beach, almost all with sea views. Access is via a steep climb, with internal stairs and ramps.
An apartment hotel in Muriqui, a district of Mangaratiba, a few meters from the beach, with a pool and breakfast in a panoramic restaurant. The units have a kitchen counter with a microwave.
A pousada on the sand at the right end of Praia do Abraão, 500 meters from the Ilha Grande pier. It has rooms with sea or mountain views, a deck and a 24-hour front desk.
A simple pousada in the Jabaquara neighborhood, in Paraty, 50 meters from the beach. The rooms have private bathrooms, air-conditioning, minibar and TV.
A five-suite pousada at Praia do Ápara, in Ibicuí, nine minutes from downtown Mangaratiba and the ferries to Ilha Grande. Pets are accepted.
A beachfront pousada at Praia da Crena, near Vila do Abraão, with a deck onto the water, a restaurant and kayaks. It provides arrival and departure transfers to the village.
A pousada at Praia Grande, in Mangaratiba, with a loft, suites and fully equipped apartments. Breakfast is optional.
A pousada on Avenida Jabaquara, 150 meters from the beach and 2 km from Paraty's Historic Center, with a heated pool and parking. 24-hour front desk and breakfast included.
A four-room pousada at Praia do Pouso, a 15-minute walk from Lopes Mendes, on Ilha Grande. It has a guests-only restaurant; the air-conditioning runs on the generator.
A beachfront pousada at Praia das Pitangueiras, on Ilha de Jaguanum, across from Itacuruçá. It has suites, flats with kitchens and bungalows for groups of up to ten people.
A 42-unit pousada in the Caborê neighborhood, in Paraty, set among tropical gardens, with a heated pool, restaurant and spa. It has colonial-style chalets and the Cervejaria Caborê (brewery) next door.
A pousada in Conceição de Jacareí, a district of Mangaratiba on the Rio-Santos, with triple rooms and breakfast.
Flavors of the destination
Chef Ana Bueno's restaurant on Rua Dr. Samuel Costa, devoted to caiçara (traditional coastal) cooking with fish and seafood from the Baía de Paraty. It occupies a former residential building in the Historic Center and is part of the Boa Lembrança association.
A steakhouse on Estrada Ari Parreiras with a buffet of wood-fired meats, Minas Gerais–style dishes, pasta and pizza. It serves families and local workers.
A restaurant facing Praia do Abraão, with tables indoors and on the sand, known for its fish with banana and shrimp. The caiçara menu includes moquecas, risottos and seafood for those staying in the village.
A bistro in the district of Passa Três, in Rio Claro, by the Presidente Washington Luiz highway. The menu centers on savory and sweet pizzas and esfihas (Middle Eastern pastries), with takeout available, in a casual setting for an unhurried meal on your way through the mountains.
A casual restaurant on the Rio-Santos highway, in Muriqui, with views of the sea and the islands of the Costa Verde. The menu offers contemporary dishes, brunch and pizzas for those stopping on the road or spending the day in the area.
A casual bar in the Pátio Mix shopping center, by the Rio-Santos highway, with snacks, grilled dishes and Brazilian food. It suits those looking for an informal meal with parking at the mall.
A bar and restaurant on Rua da Praia, in Vila do Abraão, with outdoor tables facing the water and live music. It serves grilled fish, moquecas, fish stews and pizzas to those looking for a relaxed meal on the island.
Chef Gisela Schmitt's restaurant, opened in 2017 at Marina Porto Imperial, with a seasonal menu of fish from local artisanal fishermen. It welcomes guests arriving by car or by boat and also organizes meals aboard the trawler Sem Pressa.
A fish and seafood restaurant on Avenida Litorânea, with a view of the beach and the bay. It serves those who want a seafood lunch on Mangaratiba's waterfront.
A restaurant at Praia do Vitorino, on Ilha da Gipóia, where customers arrive by boat and step off onto the sand. It serves shrimp in a pumpkin, seafood stew and moqueca (Brazilian fish stew), and is a common stop on bay tours.
A restaurant next to the Alambique Paratiana (distillery), on Estrada da Pedra Branca, near a waterfall in rural Paraty. It serves traditional home cooking, with pork dishes and artisanal cachaças, to those combining lunch with a distillery visit.
An all-you-can-eat rodízio steakhouse on Rua Adélia Sicli, with side dishes served at the table. It serves residents and visitors looking for a meat lunch in town.
A restaurant serving Brazilian food and seafood by the Rio-Santos highway, surrounded by greenery and with a view of the bay. It serves moquecas and fresh fish, and is a stop for those traveling along the Costa Verde.
Before you go
A little planning leaves more time to enjoy the journey.
Access is via the BR-101 (Rio-Santos highway). Angra dos Reis is about 2 and a half hours from Galeão Airport, in Rio de Janeiro, and Paraty about 4 hours; from São Paulo, Paraty is about 4 and a half hours away. There are buses from Rio and São Paulo to both towns. For Ilha Grande, ferries and speedboats leave from Angra dos Reis, Conceição de Jacareí and Mangaratiba.
From April to June and from September to November, when the sea is usually clearer, the heat is pleasant and the islands are less crowded. Summer is high season, with more sun and more people, and also quick showers in the late afternoon. During the week of the Paraty Literary Festival (Flip), the town fills up: check the dates before booking.
Plan 4 to 6 days: 2 or 3 for Angra and Ilha Grande, and 2 or 3 for Paraty, with the historic center, the waterfalls and Trindade. If you only have a weekend, choose one of the two bases and don't try both.
For boat trips around the islands, the base is Angra dos Reis, which has seafront hotels and pousadas on the islands. On Ilha Grande, Vila do Abraão has most of the pousadas and restaurants, and it's where the boats and trails start. In Paraty, it's best to stay in or near the historic center, so you can do everything on foot; Trindade has simple pousadas if you want to be close to the beaches.
Take your trash with you, follow the signs and support local businesses. In natural areas, follow the visiting guidelines.
Get your questions answered
To travel between towns, a car gives you freedom, and the Rio-Santos is well signposted. But the best outings are by boat, Ilha Grande has no cars and Paraty's historic center is closed to vehicles. If you travel by bus, you can do everything with boats, vans and booked tours.
There's no bridge: the crossing is by ferry or speedboat. Boats leave mainly from Angra dos Reis, Conceição de Jacareí and Mangaratiba, and arrive at Vila do Abraão. The speedboat takes about 30 to 50 minutes, depending on the departure point; the ferry is slower. On the island, everything is done on foot or by boat.
It depends on what you're looking for. Angra is for spending your days on a boat, among islands and natural pools, and for going to Ilha Grande. Paraty is for a historic center, food, cachaça, waterfalls and beaches like those in Trindade. With 5 days or more, you can combine both.
Yes. The historic center's paving is made of large, uneven stones, called pé-de-moleque, and the center is closed to cars. Wear sneakers or flat sandals, and be careful with rolling suitcases. At some high tides, seawater flows into downtown streets, which is part of the town's original design.
In high season and on holidays, it's recommended. Otherwise, you can book at the pier in Angra, Paraty or Vila do Abraão the day before. Routes change with the weather and the sea, and the most popular ones go to Lagoa Azul, the beaches of Ilha Grande and the islands in the bay.
